My man, thank you! Another question, I just read that carbon fiber decks are conductive af and can cause fires. If there’s any shorts or if the carbon fiber lid touches the VESC and heats up then the lid touches the battery if isn’t fully sealed in the heat shrink can lead to fires… shit man lol is there anyway to prevent this? Perhaps wrapping my battery in fish paper to be sure? I’ve heard there’s many numerous cases like this
You can pretty well isolate your battery from a carbon fiber enclosure with proper use of neoprene padding and fishpaper.
It’s not too awful, but it really depends on how much space you’ve got in the enclosure. As for the vesc and connections, you just have to be careful where you place things. Also, the type of carbon fiber makes a difference, once piece builds that are covered in epoxy are much less of a risk versus bare fiber.
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Carbon fiber isn’t any more conductive than metal (in fact it’s less). Just treat it as if it were bare metal and insulate accordingly, and you’ll be fine.
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Yeah to be fair, I probed around all on the inside of my friend’s carbon fiber enclosure and I couldn’t find any two points that conducted to each other.
The surface is very rough though
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At what point do you stop posting in the noob section 
Rebuilt my battery 12S3P and my board won’t go ver 20KM per hour with me on it, off the floor it reads 52km per hour.
I think my ESC might be busted as it just feels like it lags out when I full throttle. Could there be a limit setting somewhere I’ve missed?
Where do I start to troubleshoot this issue, I’m ok with the settings in VESC although where else should I look. I’m also bypassing the BMS. My ESC is a Maker X FOC Plus.
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what is the knocking sound, the first time it happened in the video the motor cut out
Not a good idea not to loc tite shoulder bolts (axles) bro.
You have to be sure they never come off 
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NEVER hahhahaha
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Could be a loose magnet, but not easy to say just from hearing.
You have to open up the motor to be sure i guess
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it doesn’t spin smoothly by hand either, i think you’re right
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I don’t know the answer, but I personally would fill the hole with an epoxy + milled glass fiber mixture.
I feel like any of the listed methods would be fine though, although details probably matter
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Could be a bearing as well. Just have a look inside, should be no problem to fix.
Been posting since day one 
My charger has a huge spark when plugging it in to the wall due to its huge amount of capacitance. I want to minimise this, because this huge spark is not good. I literally see a white flash when plugging it in and the spark is really loud too. Thinking about hooking up an NTC thermistor to the AC side with the correct ratings to fix this. The charger can draw 2A from the wall, I have a few 5ohm, 10 ohm, 16ohm NTC thermistors that I could use, all rated for 3A constant or higher and 230VAC. I think the resistance drops to 10% of the original resistance when they get hot.
I am wondering how bad of an idea is using an NTC thermistor for this job? In theory to me it sounds like it should work, this lowers efficiency a bit of course, but that isn’t that significant I think.
I also have no clue which resistance value would be the best to use though. Can anyone (hopefully with some EE knowledge) help me out here?
Shitty charger?
How about you get wallplug that can be switched off?
Switch off plug, plug in charger, turn switch on.
crank um down until you hear the pop, and then back a quarter turn lol
Tried that, and I killed that wallplug after like 10 switches in total.
This is a Yzpower 8A 12S charger, haven’t heard any complaints against yzpower chargers yet… Maybe I will message anubis whether this huge spark is normal.
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My guess is that something’s wrong with that charger.
I assume you have this one?
I have the pictured one in 12s 7A, no sparks on my charger.
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Yes, that one! I will write anubis a message then!
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thoughts on the LY cheesegrater 2? looks like a neat board for converting