Sounds like you need a new charger that isn’t problematic. You are searching for ways to solve the symptoms and you should probably consider solving the cause instead.
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You don’t want to crank them down until you hear a pop, that would be threads stripping
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Sry I guess I’m bad at sarcasm
I assumed it would be obvious the only type of pop you would be looking for would be from a torque wrench
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Will see if Anubis will be willing to help me out, I bought this from him but that was an year ago.
I will still want to charge until I can get a replacement or buy a new unit, though.
8inch pneumatics… 198mm or 200mm when setting up remote and vesc?
I don’t think it matters unless you read speed/distance off the ESC, but I think 8” is 203.2mm. Haven’t used pneumatics though so maybe there’s something I’m missing
I read speed and distance off my remote and it takes wheel size in mm.
200mm
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Yeah I know it isn’t lol but they’re really stuck and I don’t want to attempt to take them out. If I get anymore I’ll add loctite
Not sure if this is noob or advanced but I figured I’d start here.
I just got two used vesc 4.12 and I have two questions.
What’s the best way to add cooling and how much is sufficient?
Second. I’m going to be trying to get them in a fairly cramped enclosure. Are there any reasons it would be inadvisable to combine the capacitors into one larger bank and extend the leads to the escs so that I can have a bit more maneuverability in the enclosure for fitting them in. My basic circuit knowledge says it would be fine, but I stopped taking electrical engineering courses before I got into the emf stuff
What are some good gear ratios for urban carver on some of the popular pneumatic wheel sizes (6” to x”)?
Yes.
The caps are most effective when they are closest to the ESC. Any inductance (from wiring, connections, etc.) between the caps and the ESC’s just creates a voltage spike that the caps can no longer “swallow” if the caps are separate from the ESC.
No way to predict whether these voltage spikes will be a problem or not but “best practices” recommend to keep the caps as close as possible to the ESC.
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Thanks I guess I’ll get creative in a different direction to make these fit.
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I am also wondering about cooling. I have 2 still factory shrink wrapped.
I’m used to bolting and thermal pasting the Vesc’s to heatsinks but these FS 4.12 ones have no mounting plate, just straight bare plastic coated (mosfets?) with no mounting holes.
I’m hoping 50A battery max on these won’t blow them up without cooling but I’ll have to see thermals after installing.
Maybe submerging in a nice mineral oil mix with heatsinks enclosing it…
Is the hoyts low battery warning?
Not sure why the indicator didn’t worky maybe it’s not in the latest fw?
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i’ve not run into low battery warning on any of my puck yet.
its best to re-flash latest fw from hoyt, i can forward u their email if u want?
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Yes please. Very unfortunate as i need the remote right now. I’m hauling my ass back and forth to the new apartment. First ride didn’t have the vibrating, second does.
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i’ve sent it through, it should only take a few mins if u have a PC around
but u probably charge it as well
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I think it was the battery. I’ve had it charging for 15 minutes and noticed that all leds were red before, now green again.
I’ll still flash the Fw later.
Thanks bb.
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