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is there a list of people who fix vesc’s or can help me with one? im desperate 
A friend of mine wants a board.
Lives in Edinburgh. Hilly, lots of rain. Cheap as possible, yet reliable (DIY parts). Also using NESE, so that he can buy / sell the cells when he travels / take the battery with him on a plane.
My current thoughts are:
Seems like a single BN gear drive would suit him well, and cost about the same as a belt drive setup. Am I right? Only downside is they’re super loud, which isn’t the best in case UK decides to start cracking down on PEVs.
Are there any other parts you guys would suggest as alternatives I haven’t considered? Maybe there are cheaper options I don’t know of? What would you do? 
Let’s say budget is ~1200€
can confirm on the single 6374, works respectably even on 8" tires he should be good
btw does dropthrough make the ride more uncomfortable? since it would technically make the deck more solid?
It makes the ride more stable. Idk about making the deck feel different though
Turning will also feel slightly different, since the pivot point has changed.
i was debating new wheels for it but since its drop through and stiff maybe that would offset any benefits of plump wheels
VESC 4.12 are difficult to heatsink because the FETs dump most of their heat into the PCB and not the accessible part of the packaging.
Somewhere around 25A battery max is a sweet spot for those, I personally wouldn’t go beyond that
Search keywords Hoyt puck firmware update upgrade
If you have calipers you could measure
Don’t 100% quote me on it but I think the default ones are M4 x 45?
Either that or the english equivalent
I agree @Cyanoacrylate measuring is a better idea
Just some info about these as I have used my set for a while. They handle great in wet, traction is really good. Their traction is really valuable for a single drive board. (I am currently using single drive too)
Wear is suprisingly fast on single drive. I am less than 200km into riding mine, and the diameter is already only 110mm instead of 115. Granted, the contact patch is wider the further you wear them down so wear should slow down. I highly recommend rotateing the pulley between the wheels every 200km or so.
Make sure to drill out the cores!!! They are metal, if you push a metal pulley into them as is, let me tell you you will not have a good time removing it… Also the pin diameter is slightly smaller than original kegel. I recommend a 6mm drill, but if pushing in the pulley is still not easy then go one size up.
Replacing bearings may or may not be hard depending on your luck. It for sure is possible, just it might be a PITA.
I do 8 Wh/km on these wheels at a steady 15-20km/h speed. 16-18 Wh/km when gunning the throttle and going fast or doing slower hill climbs. Motor current capped at 40A. Still heats up my FS6384 BH 140kv motor if I go high speed or do long hill climbs.
If the 6384 size would fit in a dual configuration, it might be worth it to step up to that size instead of going 6374 - heating up the motor considerably is not that hard for an experienced rider even with low current limits.
All in all in a pretty good budget build! A friend of mine wants to do something similar in a month if he finds some summer work and gets enough money. Please keep me updated with what you go for!
Like the fool that I am, I completely forgot that my friend’s skinned Hummie deck still contains carbon fiber. I think that explains why he allegedly got a remote cut-out once.
What are my options for external antennas? How do antenna wires work? He’s currently using a mini remote, so could I just solder an extension wire to the already existing one, and route it to the outside, above the deck? Or do I need a special antenna / short wire / certain wire length to be able to catch the required radio frequencies? Maybe I should just place the whole receiver on the outside in a 3d-printed box?
Pinging @DerelictRobot because I know you know about this stuff 
This is true but I couldn’t tell you what the lengths are. If I recall correctly from signals and systems, it’s supposed to be a multiple of the wavelength, something along those lines.
How feasible is it to use 6354 motors on 8 in pneumatics for someone weighing 170 pounds without overheating the motors? or would they need bigger motors?
This is what I’d lean towards. Pot it in silicone and mount it externally.
I can’t recommend extending the antenna blindly without understanding the transmitter spec.
You’ll overheat them in the summer or on any decent sized hills.
I regularly overheat much larger motors on 8" pneumatics
The two most common types of antenna you will encounter in consumer electronics in the 2.4GHz range (wifi, bluetooth, our remotes, lots of things) are PCB patch antennas like this:
or an external dipole antenna that looks like a simple wire, either with a different-colored end, or maybe a little fat thing, like this:
You can’t really do anything about a rx with a PCB patch antenna, unless you get lucky and it also has a plug for an external, or you feel adventurous enough to sever the antenna trace and add your own.
Unfortunately, you can’t just extend the wire on the external antennas either. The black (or dark gray) wire is actually a miniature coaxial cable: One central wire, with another tubular conductor around the outside of it, with insulation in between, in a carefully tuned arrangement.
You can’t just extend the little light-colored wire on the end either, because it has to be a specific length to work - 1/4 the wavelength of the frequency being used, to be exact.
Some receivers have a little connector on the PCB that the antenna mounts to, and some have the two coax conductors just soldered right on to pads. In either case, you can order an extra-long antenna premade from the usual scumbags, with or without a connector, and swap the short one with it.
Another option is to get another piece of micro coax cable (dead laptops are a great source, they generally have two pieces at least a foot long each going up the screen), and carefully splice that onto the existing antenna.
