Apologies if this has been covered before…
I can’t seem to work out how to update my VESC Tool App on my phone. It’s no longer working since I updated firmware to 5.2 on my ESCs.
Update it via the playstore if you got it from there or download it from the official page
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Can’t update from playstore. No option to. I’ll just delete it then re-install and see if that does the trick. If not, then I’ll delete again and try from website.
*Edit: yep it was that easy. I uninstalled the app then paid the $3.50 to buy it and Bob’s your uncle/aunty/or what Bob now identifies as
version 3 app has trouble updating on mac aswell, only got it to work on windows 10
Hey guys,
Currently planning an offroad board,
What is a good top speed to aim for with a 12s li-ion battery in order too keep enough torque for forest trails ?
Depends on a lot of things. Your weight, the ESC you want to go with + any heatsink, your battery, motors, etc. As a general rule of thumb though, you want to gear for the highest possible torque, and then go with a high kv motor / high voltage to compensate for the lost speed.
And use one of the eks8 calculators to assist you when planning 
Well yeah, i may have missed a few info there.
I just was eyeing the moon drives, and wondered wich gearing would work best.
I do use the calculator, but since i’m more used to building street boards i’m not sure how much more torque would be needed for an offroad board.
I planed to use 6374 170kv flipsky i already have, as for the esc not sure yet, probably xenith, or ubox (might be a bit overkill @ 12s but hey, it works). I wanted to go with 12s since i already built a few boards with 12s battery, but i might go higher.
I guess i’ll just get the highest ratio possible and see how it goes from there, that should still give a decent top speed, and i can still swap motors later to get a higher top speed if i feel it’s too slow.
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i use a single 6374 on 8 inch and it works fine, you really cant go wrong with a dual drive tbh
Is there a coupon code to use at Metro Boards??
Oops, this was a question to all. Don’t know why it’s replying to you specifically lol
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Am I doing something very wrong that I can’t get dickyho motor mounts to stay in place? I’m using it on caliber IIs and can’t get it to stop torquing itself free and slapping the motor into the deck or road. Have both grub screws in place as far as I can torque them without stripping the Allen, and the the end bolt tightened down the same. Scratched the shit out of two motors now. The only thing I can think I did wrong is that I’m fairly sure I stripped the Allen head on the grub screws that shipped with it and couldn’t get conical head ones to properly cut into the center ring, and I’m using cup head grub screws instead
do you need to disconnect hall sensors with ass?
Ass?
advanced sensorless startup
Seems like you need temp sensors, but the hall sensors don’t need to be working. But iirc the temp sensor connectors will be on the same one as your hall sensors, so I think they will need to be connected.
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Unplug all sensor wires from the JST apart from temp and then connect it to the vesc.
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Anyone know the pole count in loaded x unlimited / neo hubs?
Edit: from photos looks like 14
When you guys slap a heatsink onto an esc like the xenith, do you use thermal compound like on pcs or like a thermal pad? Or is it more optional and not really affect performance?
for flat surfaces thermal paste otherwise pads, there needs to be contact for heat transfer
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The proper way is not just bolt up and done?