Thanks for taking your time to look at it!
I am using HFI which works flawlessly for me. If it was HFI - I would hear it.
I could push throttle to the max and system wouldn’t even try to push current. Like it is too exhausted.
Motors are never hot enough that I can’t hold my hands on them - they weren’t this time either.
Tbh I don’t remember my thermal cut off settings but I am sure I left them on default, which should be more than 80 degrees
Thanks for giving me an opportunity to play with vesc tool’s log analysis. never tried that before.
I think this is the moment you’re talking a about, and it does look weird:
I note duty cycle continuing on while motor and battery amps drops to zero. what can cause that?
also 25% duty cycle? geared high I guess?
I believe it resets where zero is, and counts up from there. which sucks for saying where in the log something is after you zoomed in,.
Haha no problem, it’s not so bad, all the little details in every log
Yup that’s strange. I even remember I tried pushing full throttle when I felt speed drop and that’s not visible in log?
Yes:
You’re right.
So it will zoom in, but screws up the x-axis numbers
‘Time of Day’ field can still be used for reference thou
Hey kids.
Using the Vesc app.
What is the best way to turn off one motor?
I needed to to that today after breaking a belt…
I got it to work. But not sure I know what I did and just got lucky turning off the right motor…
I hate when people answer my questions with “but why do you need to do that” so I apologize in advance
But you absolutely don’t need to turn it off. It’s drawing very, very little power with no belt connected. Just let it spin, the only thing it’s doing is making an annoying noise.
I always wondered how bad that was.
It just freaks me out free spinning…
I mean. That is what they are meant to do right.
But it weirds me out
Don’t misunderstand me, it definitely freaks me out too limping home with a freespinning motor.
But I keep reminding myself that the problem is inside my head and not on the skate. 
I couldn’t bear that. I’m already self-conscious when riding my board regular and something makes a sound, like a squeaking bushing or the belt itself. I wish i wouldn’t be there at that moment.
I bench tested the Century 40 that I wrecked on close to a month ago. The throttle was unpredictable and I was able to replicate the sudden locking up on one side that I experienced on my fateful ride by just by letting off and getting back on the throttle and I heard the same loud motor noise when it locked too. It also wanted to change directions on that one side. I decided to re-program the Unity. Using the latest VESC tool it was a total nightmare getting the motors to pass detection. Once the motors finally passed detection the throttle was still acting sketchy. I was concerned that the EnertionUSA/Amazon Unity I bought secondhand from a forum-member was the culprit (it still may be).
My questions are:
How can I know for sure if my VX1 went full Flipshit or if there is a problem with my UART port or another yet un-diagnosed ESC issue? I have a Meter Pro Unity module on order from the GB 
but I am completely new to logging.
I have multiple mini remote receivers, is it possible to make my board any safer by running more than 1 receiver into a Unity or is that asking for trouble? @b264
I don’t use dual ESCs and don’t recommend them, so I am not sure about the Unity.
My setups that use one radio receiver per motor seem safer to me after extensive use with and without the additional receiver. But I don’t want to get flamed on here…
I still build with dual receivers, if that’s any indication to you.
But I don’t even know if that’s possible with Unity anyway. Or with a Flipsky remote. I don’t use those.
I am definitely retiring the questionable VX1. The Chubby I am using now has mini remote internals and uses PWM which I am thinking may be more reliable than whatever UART witchcraft is going on with the FS remotes but I am not really sure.
check the wiring on that thing. would be interesting to know if it broke from the throttle wheel wiggling them around like this:
[ or send it to me and I’ll check it. ]
What are your ramp up/down values?
At 0 or really close to 0 you would indeed get very violent, wheel-locking cutouts if the remote is the issue.
Setting both to let’s say 1 second, would smoothly ramp up/down if the remote is the true issue. More than enough to adjust your position on the board too.
If the esc or motors are the issue, this will probably do nothing.
One more thing: did you ride in the rain? Vx1 has practically a gaping hole right on top of the potentiometer.
Water entering that would either mess it up instantly, or later on corrode the semiconductive surface plate/disc/band/whatever they chose, the tracking pin or both inside
I saw your post and opened mine up prior to the bench test. Thanks for sharing that! Everything in the transmitter looked proper. I am thinking it is a borked receiver.
I’d measure the resistance between each of the pins of that potentiometer, while turned off, while pushing and pulling the throttle. It should be relatively exponential, but obviously predictable. Spikes in values means it’s fucked
I don’t have any experience with the vx1 remote but I’ve seen close to a dozen reports of it not working correctly with the unity now. I’m sensing a trend…
any sense of uart vs ppm mode on those reports?
because I’m not sure why the unity would change it’s reliablity.
Me either, but I’ve seen uart mentioned most often. Just a sideline observation.
Maybe this helps a bit?
