No no, they did that way before, just by screwing the enclosure on 
It seems like the connection between deck and insert was to weak and the threaded insert just got ripped out of the hole, so that by turning the screw, it wouldn’t go in any further because the insert turned along with it… 
@bollen
Yup!
Will go buy the wooden inserts locally!
Any way to get the bad inserts out again?
Maybe I’ll just wait for one after another to fail 
Then just be glad they failed before you got on the board and broke anything else
Take one of these put a long screw through it (that fits the insert) and then just screw it on until it pulls out the insert, be sure to protect the board somehow so that it does not dig in. Heating up the epoxy most likely helps too
How to get the ones that are still in, out?
Hot air seems to make the epoxy fluid again(???)
@bollen
No, epoxy is not like glue or adhesive.
So I should go patchwork as for now, as I won’t get the rest of the inserts out?
Treat cured epoxy as solid aluminum and you should understand your situation better.
You can drill it and tap it if it’s the right kind of epoxy and mixed correctly and cured for long enough.
anyone know any other products like Davega, Or if anyone has coded an arduino to do the same thing, please let me know!
The original davega is open source the designs and code are on GitHub it’s a bit laggy and likely needs the new UART libraries but still works.
il get myself onto github then. Thanks.
Personally big fan of metr Bluetooth telemetry then just get all the realtime data and recordings on your phone. Once you ride a few times you know roughly what your range is anyway so then the meter on board has diminished value (unless you just like the look of it)
I have some of the davega diy kit stuff too but is basically just TFT screen and avr processor so shouldn’t be too hard to source those parts.
In my personal opinion, a battery gauge on the board has so little practical value that it falls in the “looks, appearance, eye-candy, and svelte” category for me. I don’t ever add them anymore. Plus, it’s one more place for water to enter.
this, plus you can plug in one of these into the charge port
or use a bluetooth solution to just look on your phone. If you need to check at all. Properly adjusted ESC cutoffs mean you can feel the battery getting low anyway.
So there are like 4 separate reasons you don’t really need a battery gauge on the esk8 imho, despite it seeming like a ludicrous notion at first. It’s completely unnecessary.
I used loctite (plain superglue) to great success. I did have to hammer them in however.
Out of 24, one moved like a month later and i did the same thing again
I enjoy more the element of coding and building the unit rather than the data. That way I can customise it to my own thing. Plus I like to use the Blynk APP for recording data on my phone which will work with a Davega style system. I have mounted a 2" TFT screen to my custom printed ESC enclosure so itll look the nuts hopefully
Strong in this one is the DIY spirit
So I found this on Mercari, is this a good deal or should I keep looking?
Make sure to get a deck that has a custom-fit enclosure available
Wouldn’t the meepo nls pro enclosures work fine with this deck?
As long as you know they work before you buy the deck, all is good
Just to tie a bow on this one in case anyone else finds themselves in the same scenario.
Overcurrent faults under light throttle and immediate max brakes when engaging brakes. The log did not show over current instances but did show heat spikes and noise.
Upon disassemble I found a bad solder joint on the b phase wire esc side. I had just installed motors and must have stressed it enough to let go. The joint broke at where the pre-tinned connector met the pre-tinned wire. They both had flowed but not at the same time. I stress test all joints aggressively so surprised it took a few weeks to pop up.
Haven’t fully worked the system but took a rip around the neighborhood. I’m calling it good for now.
