I use FOC / HFI on the Mini FSESC 4.20 with upgraded resistors.
But I use conservative settings with 16A battery max
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Buy this. Then take your time and build out a board to beat it, then sell the Exway.
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I’m taking a look at the new VESCs and they all seem to have 6 wire hall sensor plugins, and both my hub motors came with 5 wire Hall sensor harness. I’ve read online that skipping the temp wire wont allow the board to power on. Is there a secure fix for this issue?
IMHO the best and most reliable way is to not use the sensor cable at all. Don’t even plug it in…
Setting up HFI takes longer and works on most motors
But end result far more reliable
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I’m running 3.65 and I’ve disconnected my motor temp wire whilst retaining all other sensors still connected. Fixed my fault issues
Feeling a little defeated right now.
Some may have seen the thread I had this week,
Was having an unbalanced current fault that triggered a Fet overtemp as well. Reran detection and saw that values had changed on the motor that was connected to the master. That was also the same vesc that was triggering the faults. Through troubleshooting realized the problem followed the motor, so thought that was the issue.
Swapped motors to a known good set and detection completed as expected. Used the same settings as previously worked. The only difference was new motors are 190KV vs old at 170.
Took it for a test spin today and all seemed good. That is until I touched the brakes for the first time. Tossed me immediately. Luckily was only going 23mph. Caught me off guard so I slowly rolled back to where I started. First time I touched the brake, same thing. Picked myself up off the ground and walked the rest of the way home.
What in the fuck could I have done to cause this?
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Why is the regen that high?
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To be honest, it’s what it was set at with the prior motors and with the flipsky. Didn’t have any issues until today. Only thing I upped with the escapes is the motor current max and the battery current max
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We’ve all been there, including the stronger and more experienced guys. It will get sorted. When I feel that way, I set it aside for a day and ride something else.
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The only thing that I will add is that as I touch the brakes you can see the duty cycle go -22%. Not sure that I’ve seen that in other logs of mine. Also, obviously, it triggered two over current faults.
edit: the first fault is where i hopped off and walked behind the board.
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Hi guys,
I’m programming my new DUAL 6.6 and I’ve chucked the motor current max in as 90A. I’m guessing this is per motor or is it 90A split between both?
I only ask because I then try and set my battery current max to 200A, and it truncates it to 120A not 180A which i’d expect if it has be be the same or lower than the motor current.
Thanks
that looks 200% like the boundmotor esc, just without the branding
Edit: here is the link for the exact esc that shown in your screenshot from KAMi JUINs’ video
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ah yeah it looks identical. i’ve heard people say to avoid boundmotor, is that fair to say?
my boundmotor motor has been running fine (50km atm), other than that, I can’t comment on other products.
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oh cool, is that the Drirect Drive one? what esc do you use with that?
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I’ve got 2 set of 105mm hub, together with dickyho’s awd esc (Lingyi)
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ah, sounds like a beast. still building my first board, which is belt, and get jealous everytime i see a DD.
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the awd board isn’t really mine, just built it based on my friend’s idea, as i have no intention of actually using it as my transportation.
TBDD is awesome, get them if u can. mine is sitting in a cupboard while i wait for my enclosure from eboosted.
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im too far down the belt-drive path at this point, thoughif come into some money maybe ill build a TBDD
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