nope, if it is not the EXACT same motor, then u will need to redo detection
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No matter how good the company, stated specs are always an estimate, if you add enough decimals. Could be one single wrap of copper out of place, altering internal properties ever so slightly, but it’s better safe than sorry on something as simple as running detection over.
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hey kids.
let’s play a game of what is that Noise.
deep vibrating sound towards the end of the video.
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Did my setup with vesc tool, Motors spin and so on.
I did typo wrong Ah value for my battery, Is this a problem? Thanks.
not a problem, and u can change it after u complete all the setup. worse case would be, vesctool miscalculate the range u have left.
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Aight, Thanks!
Large Update to this
I only updated the firmware on one 75200… Only one did not work when trying to configure motors. I thought why don’t I update both. Now none work. How could upgrading the software do this, and if so, is there a way to revert? Is there some stable version for this model?
Using MacOS with “5.3” loaded. Seems to have software broken the 75200’s…
Should I try to download and flash this?
SOLVED EVERYTHING
Why were the motors screaming and grinding?
^Phase filtering is a default true, and 75200’s do not have it.
Why are the motors detecting as 50A when they are clearly very powerful and other users get 150A+?
-Flipsky used the wrong resistors. They used 1.6 instead of 4.7 on some models and I tested mine, they are the bad ones. Why I was never notified of this as a buyer, and how it was not detected I dont know, but everyone in the Efoil forums was saying their motors cut out at 50A and guess what mine do…
More here:Has anyone successfully used the Flipsky FSESC 75200 with the FS65161 motor? - #42 by jkoljo - Propulsion System (Motor, Gears) - FOIL.zone
Keywords: 75200, 80100 motors weak, Loud detection, Wrong resistor
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Hi, I need an advice on this issue: due to continuous carving, BD caliber II motor mount with idler tensioner loses alignment and slowly moves outwards until it contacts the wheel pulley and gradually blocks a wheel (only one, the other one sits perfectly in position since I did my build).
First time this happened, after a considerable walk of shame, I carefully checked my BD 220 truck for deformation and found none, so it’s my fault, I thought.
I then resorted to a solution that I thought was permanent:
red loctite on motor mount screws and a small strip of heat shrink between motor mount and truck (solution found on the old forum). I white-marked the position of both mounts on the rear truck. After a month of hard carving the problem recurred, on the same mount I thought I had definitively repaired!. The white marks on the mount/truck show a 0.5mm misalignment. The wheel locked progressively as last time and not suddenly.
What am I doing wrong?
Post a pic if you can.
If it’s really a pain in the ass, line everything up where it needs to be & then take a tap 1 size larger than the idler screw size, tap right above/below where the screw sits & put a set screw in. Red/green loctite or JB weld the set screw in, then grind it flush with the motor mount. Fairly irreversible solution.
If you have a 3D printer, you could also try printing a press fit plastic insert that fills the excess space.
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That seems counterintuitive - You want nothing to be able to creep over time, and heatshrink, being a plastic, will creep and deform much more readily than the aluminum pieces around it.
I’d suggest removing that, readjusting the mount, and slowly tightening the clamp bolts evenly while slightly wiggling the mount on the truck. The idea is to find the “low point”, where the clamp is loosest on the truck along the path of the wiggle, and then tighten it there so if it tries to move on its own, every direction is tighter.
If you do need to shim it because it’s still loose, use metal shim material rather than plastic.
Some Loctite 648 high-strength retaining compound between the clamp and the truck (scuff both surfaces first) will also help guarantee nothing will move in the future, while also being removable in the future with the liberal application of heat.
Also make sure you’re tightening those clamp bolts adequately: M6 class 12.9 bolts are good for a max torque of ~14-15 ft-lb, which is kind of a lot to put through an allen key. High quality (Wera Hex-Plus) allen keys are highly recommended, and switching from button head to full-height socket cap head bolts allows one size larger of hex drive (5mm vs 4mm), which will also improve torque.
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That is a horrible noise. Only on braking it seems too from what i could tell. Sounds like something is rubbing but weird only whilst braking.
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Seen that before unfortunately. 3 of my 4 did that
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Oh, u saying it was a delaminated core causing the noise. Gotcha. I’m a stubby short of a six pack sorry
This is why the 74a was the best run of these, only the 72 have this consistent issue
I don’t think the original batch of 72A have the problem. But there is no way I’m aware of to know which batch they are from.
I really want to skin a deck but am having trouble finding info regarding the process. Im wondering
What type of fabric to print on? Where are you ordering yours from? Ive found difference sources but not entirely sure where to start.
What type of epoxy is recommended?
Is there a thread on this Im missing or is this coveted, hidden knowledge haha?
thanks!