it does seem like the the bottom part has a chip missing compare to what Marcel posted.
Send this pic to flipsky and ask them to replace it, they should do it since it a defective product
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Thx both!! You’re right about the missing part I think. I will email flipsky!
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Best of luck, if they won’t replace it, I have a spare pcb I can send u for shipping price
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Wow thanks thats kind!
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Does anyone know the per wheel weight of the stooge race slicks? Thanks in advance.
I have two 80100s detecting individually on 75/200 VESCs all brand new…
Motor 1) Detects perfectly, has ~20mOhm resistance detected and marks it as ~60A Motor (Odd, but it detected so ill deal with the low amperage later because I was expecting 100+)
Motor 2) At first refused to detect giving me “could not detect sensor issues”(regardless of having them plugged in or not). VESC had 3 green lights, and one blue, and one red blinking one, where as the okay VESC had 3 green and one blue. Reflashed firmware, no more blinking light, and it started detection…
Then it Made horrible screeching noises in multiple frequencies as it spun up, detected it as 0.6mOhm, and 400A, and the wires/vesc were warm (not hot or concerning, but noticeable that they were really pumping amps.
Additional info,
-The motor phase wires should be soldered hot no issues, I used 2x300 watt guns with a friend and completely soldered them
-No faults detected
-No, the screeching noise is not the same as the detection screech. I can record if needed but really dont want to for the safety of the hardware. It is horrendously loud, and continues doing so when on the motor inversion page that just spins the motor slowly. Seriously sounds bad. Also heats up non-concerningly, but definitely running 100+A to get that warm in 30 seconds…
What I am curious of
-Is that the sign of a shorted motor?
-Why did one motor detect at 60A even though its an 80100 and others have clocked them at 100+A? I am certain the solder joints are hot as could be, and create a perfect silver soaked copper sponge.
-What can I do to troubleshoot this?
I don’t know actual weight but when I felt them in person they were very light
Iighter than any Esk8 wheel I’ve used
Did you do a BLDC hand test on the motors?
If you swap the motors, does it swap which side acts funny?
Have you contacted Trampa?
In hands they spun freely, when shorting phase wires there was a smooth resistance. So maybe it is the VESC… it just wouldn’t make sense considering how the motor wires warmed up
Motor also freely spins as currently mounted though
need a low kv powerful motor (dont mind if its reasonably large) 150-200kv
I have an AT board that I use a GT2b remote with. I am working on another esk8 build, and would like to use the other GT2b that I have laying around for the board.
Part of the reason i’m building the new one is so that my girlfriend and I can ride together. If we are both using the gt2b remotes, will there be a conflicting signal that might cause cutouts?
Would anybody recommend against storing your LiPo’s on their long flat side? (thinking about weight distribution on cells)
I could be wrong, but I think squeezing them is better than not squeezing them, as long as it’s even and nothing will poke holes or dents in them.
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Sorry if I may be in the wrong thread but where in Germany / Europe can I order steel motor pulleys?
I want to replace my worn 16T alu ones.
Thanks.
Thread is fine.
You have to select “no keyway” otherwise it’ll say it is out of stock.
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They will customize the bore size, setscrews, keyways, etc for you as well.
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idk where to put this, so here it is
How to calculate the maximum continuous current output (A) for your battery
Max continous Amp draw (A)= Battery capacity (Ah) x Discharge rate (C)
For a example, a 5100mAh 3 cell Lipo battery with a 10C rating. Convert 5100mAh to 5.1Ah, multiply that number by 10 (C), to get a total continuous output of (5.1 x 10) = 51A
search tag:
lipo c rating
c rating to amps
c rating conversion
c rating to a rating
lipo amps calc
In calculations, C is “per hour” much the same way Hz is “per second”.
Also, it seems known that some lipo sellers exaggerate their cells’ C ratings
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OK, noob question: How to open hobbywing motor?
Cause after the first 1100Km/700miles hub motors started making noise like grinding sand.
Open cover find this 
Immediately bought electric motor cleaner and rubber sealed 6905 bearings but can’t opening the motor.
Best tutorial is this:
but rotor covers are different and part highlighted in green in the pic is VEEEEERY well stuck… hammering, pulling, twisting by hand… nothing works. Maybe has to be unscrewed or there’s some invincible loctite in there… dunno 
quite difficult to replace rusty bearings… hehe
Can anyone experienced help a noob pull the rotor cover out 
please?
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