good! a nice round number!! 
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You’re saying you set the motor current to 23.333 (repeating of course) Amps per side?
because the screen shots, and the saved configs you showed us had them at 60A motor current.
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yes its at 23.33 i can tell top speed is now 38 still a little hot but ay gotta live on the edge a little
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have you changed that since you sent us the configs? because they said 60A.
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and the battery settings in his config dump are wacky as well…
<si_battery_type>0</si_battery_type>
<si_battery_cells>3</si_battery_cells>
<si_battery_ah>6</si_battery_ah>
does anyone know what firmware he’s on?
if running sensor-less and kick-push starts don’t bug him, and he get’s the motor amps down I guess my work is done here…
but FW5.02 has HFI he could run… (i sense this would not end well)
or he could plug in the sensors again and fuck with the motor thermistor settings in VESC to confuse the Focbox about the temperature value… (I feel this is well above his pay-grade)
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ahh you have battery current max set to 23.33A that’s not bad. but at lower speeds motor current isn’t limited by that. it’s limited by motor current which you still have set to 60A.
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Yep I been thinking about this. but until i’ve been through it I didn’t want to advise it. if it’s working for him with sensorless cog style then i’m on the side of leave it alone.
and mine? i’ve tried to slide the beta values around and don’t feel comfortable with it. I’d rather figure out the HFI path. he would also have to get his connector’s broken wire repaired. work we’ve avoided.
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just thinkin’ to myself here… pardon the randomness… but if I were in @mikEEE’s shoes what would I do…
first lower the motor amps
second raise the max temp setting in the VESC tool… 120c is the max I could get on my firmware
then I’d plug the sensors back in, ride casually, and observe the motor temp.
If he’s getting cut outs at 120c I feel he’s running in the danger zone
and I’d lower motor amps to a level to not get to 120c and alter my riding style to keep the craptor hubs from melting…
yup… that’s what I’d do
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I don’t have a temperature sensored motor at my disposal but if your a smart cookie and can observe static temperature as you adjust the sliders you could say look at the settings and the temperature and say slide the beta values where 25c would equal something way less say 5c or zero C…
but I’ve already said my piece above at what I would do in his situation…
YUP
I had similar thoughts.
… i failed on hat last part. 
but if it’s working for him. except drop motor currents. I think it’s better not to change anything else.
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i think the curve is non linear on a thermistor ???. so adjusting with a lower temp observation does different stuff at a higher temp. if i were doing it myself I’d probably heat it up and then tweak the settings. I did play with this before trying to avoid my flaky motor temp overcurrent faults.
Oh, I think I got this wrong.
Were you having “throttle stuck on” issues? that’ll be something else. nothing we’ve done so far addresses that.
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exactly… and we could debate/collaborate to solve this issue but I feel we both agree this is not the path he should take…
when I first swapped over my Unity to FW5 I experienced some weird thermal throttling that was not actual high temperatures but a firmware filtering problem…
I just depinned the thermistor at the sensor plug and trusted I knew my motors…
now apparently it is fixerated in FW5.02, but I’ll be gawd damned if I’m going to open up my board again (on a perfectly working mach-scheen) to add back in the temperature sensor…
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@mikEEE what version of the firmware are you running?
and remaining action item:
set your motor currents down from 60A. your battery current is set to 23.33, motor is still 60A. set them on both sides. try between 23.33 to 30A. as low as you can stand.
leatetes , thats the same thing you set for motor and battery regen values in the wiz ?
so there’s a solid change its gonna have “throttle stuck on” and the breaks only half worke ?
Just set it in the regular UI. “motor settings” → “general” → “Current tab” → “motor current max” and “motor current max brake”
what motor firmware version are you running?
That’s a more unusual issue. I’m hoping for no, not a solid chance. Did it happen more than once? what firmware version were you running at the time? was that with the VX2 remote? which remote are you using now?
ok. also a new issue since I unplugged my motors to sodder , they now start in reverse upon boot
@fessyfoo
did you change anything since you successfully rode it? it doesn’t make sense to me that it would work normal then flip directions on reboot.
is it both motors? or just one.
Does it no longer ride properly? or does it just do this on the bench?
"have you tried turning it off and on again. "
there’s a couple ways to flip the directions on the motors, but if you didn’t change anything they shouldn’t change AFAIK. did you ever disconnect the big phase wires going to the motors? 3 per motor. I don’t think you would have I think you’d have had to cut the shrink wrap i see in your photos above.
no its perfect it I just have to put my remote in reverse mode on both motors every time
I did unplug them