@mikEEE I think you need your own topic. Spread out across time in the N00b questions threads I think your conversational style leaves a lot to get lost.
I’ll try to help you here. maybe some others will still as well.
DISCLAIMER: ANY INFO FOUND HERE YOU USE AT YOUR OWN RISK AND TAKE FULL RESPONSIBILITY.
The story so far ( check me on this. )
@MikEEE has a raptor2 with dual og focboxes. and the R2 hubs.
hubs that get so hot they set everyone on fire. (figuratively mostly)
It was working.
upgraded vx2 remote.
also upgraded firmware at the same time. wiping all settings. and starting from scratch.
had issues getting multiple vescs over CAN working. (solved with set status on secondary vesc.)
had issues with vx2. ( solved? waiting. )
then came the big problem. THERMAL THROTTLING. it was reported that it rode suckier than previously.
after some learnings that they run hot… decided they should run hot. found jeff’s post which makes the claim it’s ok to run them at 110c.
tried various settings of motor thermal cutoff settings, didn’t yet find one he likes.
options.
get rid of the hubs. deferred for now because @mikEEE wants to avoid spending money and tenaciously wants to squeeze value out of these things. ( at great cost to those giving him advice. )
cut the motor sensor wires. tried this. cut the wrong wires. needs fixing. could try again.
unplug the sensor wires hall and temp. this would mean running sensorless. not talked about too much
run some magic no limits firmware. to be able to set the 140c motor temp cutoff that Jeff suggested in his post. none of us like this idea… it means other values are also unlimited and setting things up wrong could smoke the nice little focboxes.
adjust vesc settings so it doesn’t know what temp things are at and won’t trigger throttling, sensor type, beta value, coefficent for ptc themisitor [added from suggestion below]
other ideas…
Ok @mikEEE so where you at now? your cut wire still partially fixed? what’s your thoughts on where you want to go with this?
if he was my brother he’d be the red-headed, adopted, water-head baby that the family hid in the basement… (no offence to Gingers… she was my second favorite Castaway)
I literally told him the temp. sensor wire was usually located next to the 5v pin… (go look on the n00b thread)… and then the douche gets all uppity when I giggled at his work… fuck him…
he’s on “IGNORE” status now… but if you look up… I did make another stab at assisting him…
wow guys I really appreciate all this help so im gonna try to keep it to a couple of replies at most ty
Issues
120< ( a way that ubuntu is not involved) This is ultimately The issue because I think with the no motor wire it will be even worse even at 25a per?
other:
I gotta repair my shii soder job extra length is needed, are one of the wires I didn’t cut the temperature wire and ok to cut and steel length from
I don’t wanna cut Temp wire from the extension cuz I might end up having to replace them sooner than planned
also, I don’t want to risk my bored shutting off and glitching out like 10% of the time
and cuz i feel i can’t fit a belt drive kit will the torque boards be any safer?
but if I can just hold the phone till the end of next summer with these motors would make a difference
I think you’re saying you want some thermal throttling to let you know when the motor is getting more than too hot but way way way too hot. which means keep a temp sensor wire. is that what you’re getting at?
The only getting above the 120C setting options are the no limits firmware which I don’t understand well enough to guide you through yet. or the compile our own firmware with only that one limit set which is also another slog. there’s also some version of adjust the temp sensor settings to skew it’s range… but I don’t think I can work that out accurate enough to be useful. so they’re all kinda not easy.
I think all the other options are basically get rid of the motor temperature sensor functionality some way. and let it get as hot as it gets. they’ll all be easier to pull off.
Post some pictures here of how you ended up. you have two choices here. continue to try to repair this yourself or take it to a local electronics repair place and let them fix it. they’ll be able to. even fi they’re like old tv repair… any electronics guy can fix it.
right. without the temp sensor you won’t hit the thermal throttling or cutoffs. you will just have relatively no warnings if it goes well above 110c. again this will still be the easiest to pull off.
you asking about the TB direct drive? I’m sure some kind of belt kit will fit too. if you want to go that route now we can start talking about it. the rest of the forum will be more than happy to help again.
@mikEEE this is an option you can try, it just requires unpluging sensors and reconfiguring vesc to run sensorless. you’ll have to push to start or it will cog a little. you’ll have no temperature sensing.
but you don’t have to fix your broken wire or get thermal cutouts.
I believe you guys said it was the purple wire that i actually needed to cut so imma just remove length from that , and config as sensorless and it shouldnt kill me all but once xD
Slow down. Have you opened the enclosure? @kook posted a road map for you if you look at the focbox. If you unplug the sensor plug, there are more settings that have to be changed.
before you cut or try to fix any of htat further. take more pictures and post them.
and then I want you to look at the wiring diagram @kook posted and tell me which wire is the sensor wire.
but…
yeah, you can unplug the wires (plural). it will unplug both the hall sensors and the temperature sensor.
then you have to reconfigure to run sensorless. which means usually you have to push to start or it kinda jams up. “cogging” and you have no temperature sensor.
I think you’re saying. “that sounds easy and the repercussions are no temperature sensor means at some point it just gets to hot and fails”
um. yes? I’m not 100% how those hubs will fail from running to hot. but yeah at some point. they’ll fail no warnings from motor temp sensor. but again all the keep sensor working options are harder.
you can limit motor current and keep the board to as little torque as you can stand and that’ll get the most out of them.
)
