Yep I been thinking about this. but until i’ve been through it I didn’t want to advise it. if it’s working for him with sensorless cog style then i’m on the side of leave it alone.
and mine? i’ve tried to slide the beta values around and don’t feel comfortable with it. I’d rather figure out the HFI path. he would also have to get his connector’s broken wire repaired. work we’ve avoided.
just thinkin’ to myself here… pardon the randomness… but if I were in @mikEEE’s shoes what would I do…
first lower the motor amps
second raise the max temp setting in the VESC tool… 120c is the max I could get on my firmware
then I’d plug the sensors back in, ride casually, and observe the motor temp.
If he’s getting cut outs at 120c I feel he’s running in the danger zone
and I’d lower motor amps to a level to not get to 120c and alter my riding style to keep the craptor hubs from melting…
I don’t have a temperature sensored motor at my disposal but if your a smart cookie and can observe static temperature as you adjust the sliders you could say look at the settings and the temperature and say slide the beta values where 25c would equal something way less say 5c or zero C…
but I’ve already said my piece above at what I would do in his situation…
i think the curve is non linear on a thermistor ???. so adjusting with a lower temp observation does different stuff at a higher temp. if i were doing it myself I’d probably heat it up and then tweak the settings. I did play with this before trying to avoid my flaky motor temp overcurrent faults.
exactly… and we could debate/collaborate to solve this issue but I feel we both agree this is not the path he should take…
when I first swapped over my Unity to FW5 I experienced some weird thermal throttling that was not actual high temperatures but a firmware filtering problem…
I just depinned the thermistor at the sensor plug and trusted I knew my motors…
now apparently it is fixerated in FW5.02, but I’ll be gawd damned if I’m going to open up my board again (on a perfectly working mach-scheen) to add back in the temperature sensor…
@mikEEE what version of the firmware are you running?
and remaining action item:
set your motor currents down from 60A. your battery current is set to 23.33, motor is still 60A. set them on both sides. try between 23.33 to 30A. as low as you can stand.
That’s a more unusual issue. I’m hoping for no, not a solid chance. Did it happen more than once? what firmware version were you running at the time? was that with the VX2 remote? which remote are you using now?
did you change anything since you successfully rode it? it doesn’t make sense to me that it would work normal then flip directions on reboot.
is it both motors? or just one.
Does it no longer ride properly? or does it just do this on the bench?
"have you tried turning it off and on again. "
there’s a couple ways to flip the directions on the motors, but if you didn’t change anything they shouldn’t change AFAIK. did you ever disconnect the big phase wires going to the motors? 3 per motor. I don’t think you would have I think you’d have had to cut the shrink wrap i see in your photos above.
Oh so your test runs were in “reverse”. ok. then it makes sense.
The two ways to solve that are:
Replug them. if they are plugged in to positions 1, 2,3. then you’ll want to plug em in 3,2,1. I think, but am not actually sure you should re run motor detection. (does that matter if there’s no hall sensors to detect? )
alternatively there’s a vesc setting “motor settings” -> “general” -> “general tab” -> “invert motor direction” but I think that’s usually downplayed. not sure why.
Take a good picture of the motor phase wires before and after if you mess with them.
What version of the firmware are you running?
don’t forget to drop your motor current max amps down from 60A to 25A or the lowest you can stand.
you never quite answered this one. what version of the firmware are you running?
you should be able to see it in vesc-tool. “firmware” section lower left section of the screen when you connect.