Hummie | 12S4P | Unity | VX1 | 140KV | Super carve | Superstar | Urban treads


I live on an island in the Norwegian archipelago. With a person-powered cable ferry connection to the main land. There are no asphalt roads or cars on the island. Hence the need for an all terrain board as my main transportation. I started with an Ownboard W1 pro with sanyo cells which still serves me well. Ordered a Raptor 2.1 but moved on while waiting. Life’s too short to be pushed around.

This is my first DIY and I choose parts which would play nice together. Parts choosen are readily available which hopefully will minimize down time and increase serviceability when needed. When I had to choose between speed or torque I choose torque. Main source of knowledge has been this community. I made the specs list as detailed as possible with links which hopefully will help other first time builders out.

Deck: @Hummieee deck. MOB Griptape 11" super coarse grit Link

Enclosure: @bigben satin single stack wire channel enclosure with black inserts, bolts and fender washers

Trucks: Evolve supercarve GT drop through mounted @seabjorn 3D printed power/charge port riser by @neiru37 Link Printed by @Fredrikhems

Wheels: Evolve hubs @seabjorn Bones super reds bearings Link Trampa urban treads 6.5" ≈ 165 mm Link 66T board bumpers drive gear Link 6900 bearing Link

Motors: Dual racerstar 5065 140KV Link 15T motor pulley Link 3.5mm bullet. Jst 2.0 ph 6 pin Link

Motor mount: Evolve 2019 GT 7075 alloy Link Board bumpers large motor bumper Link
2.5 mm stainless steel washer Link

Belts: 360-5M-15 mm from board bumpers Link and extras Link

Battery: Flat flexible 12S4P 30Q. Cells from Besttech D140 charge only BMS. Built by @TarzanHBK Male jst battery silicone charge port extension Link 3M dual lock Link Vibration absorption sheet Link

Charger: Wate 50.4V 4A 5.5*2.1 Link 2A charger came with the battery

ESC: Unity Link Peel-N-Stick EVA double sided foam tape Link JST 2.0 PH 5 Pin extension Link Kafuter K703 silicone glue Link Phase wire holders Link

40.8 V cutoff start
37.2 V cutoff end
60 A max battery discharge current
-14 A max breaking regen current
50 A max motor current
-50 A max break current
Kick push to start: Enabled
Minutes inactive until shutdown: 4 min

Remote: Flipsky VX1 ppm mode Link Jst 2.0 ph 2 pin solderd to remote receiver volt Link Nano-X serves as backup remote Link @visnu777

Lights: 2 shread lights with standard mounts on front truck Link White light facing forward and red light facing backwards.

Screws nuts, bolts hardware:
Front truck - M5 * 35 mm hex socket button black 10.9. M5 nylon lock black. Moonbeams @moon
Back truck: M5 * 50 mm hex socket button black 10.9 Link Aluminum flange low profile nyloc nut M5 black Link Nylon r-type cable clamp 12.7 mm Link
Each motor - 3 M4 x 8 mm hex socket button screw black 10.9 and 1 M4 x 6 mm hex socket button screw black 10.9 Link The 6 mm screw goes where the phase and sensor cables exit the motor.
Drive gear - 1mm copper washer Link
Grub screw motor pulley - I tried M3 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm dog point 12.9 alloy. 8 mm was the best fit Link

Cost: Initial calculation for major parts was around 1300€. Final calculation have not been done, but exceeded the initial.

Tools: before I started I had a set of IKEA tools. Luckily my tool selection has grown and is catered to ESK8

Wera hex plus Link Quick heating T12 soldering station Link 60/38 rosin core solder Link cleaning kit for soldering tip Link helping hands Link wire cutter and stripper Link motor pinion gear puller remover Link bones speed cream Link loctite 243 threadlocker medium strength Link 3:1 adhesive heat shrink tube Link Link Link wire mesh guard Link Black magic eraser Link

Rider protection: TSG pass pro durado, triple 8 knee and elbow pads, hillbilly full finger wrist guards

Build process and pictures:

Build started 2019-03-19 when I got my hands on a Unity which was the first part. After that I went on a shopping spree and parts started rolling in:

Comparing banggood and aliexpress motors. Banggood (on the right) seems to be slightly better from the outside:

Why do it when you can over do it:

Maximum legal length for esk8 in Norway is 120 cm:


Belt was a bit off:

Spacing it out helped:

Measuring up a spacer:

2.5 mm spacer in place. It did the trick:

Ensuring a perfect fit:

Battery indicator on the remote:

Low profile nylon lock nut and filed down bolt to allow clearance for the wires to enter the enclosures narrow wire channels:

Might seal the gaps later on:

Current build status as posting this: Board is up and running. Still tinkering with details though.


Looks fantastic. It’ll be even better when those motors eat all their vegetables and grow up into real motors :joy:


I’m vegetarian, we get along just fine :wink:

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Haha, don’t worry I’m in the same boat over here, even smaller 5045’s


Very noice build and cool place to live


It would be cool if you could get a bit of maple of bamboo routed to the right shape and use it to seal that gap on your baseplate.

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Very nice looking board, great job!


I can tell you really thought this build out! Great work. I got a good laugh out of the man powered ferry. You should open your own ferry using esk8 motors :wink:


Great build, hopefully you’ll never need the backup remote, the vx1 is worlds better :blush:

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A well planned clean build, well done!

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Simply beautifull ! A cool build I could ride all time :wink: :+1:

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Welcome! Matched your level status with Builder’s Forum.


How’s the board at speed?

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Insane :open_mouth: :ok_hand: !!!


I love it

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Wow, you’ve made a lovely job there. I hope you’re enjoying it!

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Great idea. Would be a nice continuation of the wood/ black theme already going on. So far I’ve been thinking sugru or black silicone.

Thanks! I read that you previously had a similar problem with misaligned belt with racerstars and boardbumpers drive gear. Did you ever find a solution? didn’t offer me much help either.

Good question! It tops out at 38 kmh, as expected with this gearing and kv. Haven’t experienced any speed wobbles. There are approximately 2 threads showing on all kingpins and the bushings are not squashed. The turning radius is super narrow. Can go around in circles, at low speed, in 4 meter radius. The torque is satisfying strong across the whole range. I have to distribute my weight before hitting the throttle to keep my balance. There are plenty of hills where I ride and I can accelerate up any of them. It feels like the wide and long Hummie deck makes the double kingpin very manageable. I hope some of that answers your question.

It’s a wonderful platform to build on :wink: Thanks you and everyone else for the positive feedback.


Nice build. If you want speed later just add another duel drive to the front with a higher kv. But you would need more vescs obviously and i prefer two remotes as the second acts like a booster, but im sure there is a way to run off the same remote and have the 4x4 kick in at a higher speed.

@mmaner and @JohnnyMeduse have theoretically come up with a solution to this. They can explain it, I get it but it’s hard to talk out someone elses idea.


It’s was @Blasto’s solution

Add an additional lower KV motor to the front, either heel side it extended shaft for both wheels or 2 motors if you want.

Set the dead band higher on the VESC controlling the additional motor. I haven’t done it yet but I would assume somewhere around 60%.

That way it only comes into play when your deep into the throttle.