I live on an island in the Norwegian archipelago. With a person-powered cable ferry connection to the main land. There are no asphalt roads or cars on the island. Hence the need for an all terrain board as my main transportation. I started with an Ownboard W1 pro with sanyo cells which still serves me well. Ordered a Raptor 2.1 but moved on while waiting. Life’s too short to be pushed around.
This is my first DIY and I choose parts which would play nice together. Parts choosen are readily available which hopefully will minimize down time and increase serviceability when needed. When I had to choose between speed or torque I choose torque. Main source of knowledge has been this community. I made the specs list as detailed as possible with links which hopefully will help other first time builders out.
Enclosure: @bigben satin single stack wire channel enclosure with black inserts, bolts and fender washers
Battery: Flat flexible 12S4P 30Q. Cells from nkon.nl. Besttech D140 charge only BMS. Built by @TarzanHBK Male jst battery silicone charge port extension Link 3M dual lock Link Vibration absorption sheet Link
Charger: Wate 50.4V 4A 5.5*2.1 Link 2A charger came with the battery
40.8 V cutoff start
37.2 V cutoff end
60 A max battery discharge current
-14 A max breaking regen current
50 A max motor current
-50 A max break current
Kick push to start: Enabled
Minutes inactive until shutdown: 4 min
Lights: 2 shread lights with standard mounts on front truck Link White light facing forward and red light facing backwards.
Screws nuts, bolts hardware:
Front truck - M5 * 35 mm hex socket button black 10.9. M5 nylon lock black. Moonbeams @moon
Back truck: M5 * 50 mm hex socket button black 10.9 Link Aluminum flange low profile nyloc nut M5 black Link Nylon r-type cable clamp 12.7 mm Link
Each motor - 3 M4 x 8 mm hex socket button screw black 10.9 and 1 M4 x 6 mm hex socket button screw black 10.9 Link The 6 mm screw goes where the phase and sensor cables exit the motor.
Drive gear - 1mm copper washer Link
Grub screw motor pulley - I tried M3 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm dog point 12.9 alloy. 8 mm was the best fit Link
Cost: Initial calculation for major parts was around 1300€. Final calculation have not been done, but exceeded the initial.
Tools: before I started I had a set of IKEA tools. Luckily my tool selection has grown and is catered to ESK8
Wera hex plus Link Quick heating T12 soldering station Link 60/38 rosin core solder Link cleaning kit for soldering tip Link helping hands Link wire cutter and stripper Link motor pinion gear puller remover Link bones speed cream Link loctite 243 threadlocker medium strength Link 3:1 adhesive heat shrink tube Link Link Link wire mesh guard Link Black magic eraser Link
Rider protection: TSG pass pro durado, triple 8 knee and elbow pads, hillbilly full finger wrist guards
Build process and pictures:
Build started 2019-03-19 when I got my hands on a Unity which was the first part. After that I went on a shopping spree and parts started rolling in:
Comparing banggood and aliexpress motors. Banggood (on the right) seems to be slightly better from the outside:
Why do it when you can over do it:
Maximum legal length for esk8 in Norway is 120 cm:
Belt was a bit off:
Spacing it out helped:
Measuring up a spacer:
2.5 mm spacer in place. It did the trick:
Ensuring a perfect fit:
Battery indicator on the remote:
Low profile nylon lock nut and filed down bolt to allow clearance for the wires to enter the enclosures narrow wire channels:
Might seal the gaps later on:
Current build status as posting this: Board is up and running. Still tinkering with details though.