First DIY build, thoughts/feedback?

Hi Guys, about to start my first DIY build. I’ve been on electric boards for about a year now, started with an Ownboard W2 and moved on to a Bamboo GTR. I’m keen for more torque, top speed and range. I live in a regional area surrounded by 100’s of kilometres of rail trail and bush tracks, so I want something more than capable off road, but also able to keep up with the Lacroix’s and Flux Motion’s on the road for group rides! Here’s my parts list so far, it’s a work in progress so any feedback is appreciated! I weigh about 90kgs and it’s super hilly here.

Deck- Trampa 10-73 BigBoi 35° holypro- stiff

Enclosure- eboards Peru Trampa Holypro 35 undermount

Battery- 12s8p 21700 Molicell p42a, including BMS, chargeport and charger courtesy of Glyph Iks

ESC- BKB Xenith

Trucks/gear drive/hubs- 3DServisas Finality AT Kit with Finality Channel Trucks. 127mm gear drive 40t:10t 1:4 ratio (8"-10" wheel size).

Remote- Trampa Wand

Motors- ANT Technologies 63100, 5000w, 170kv

Bindings- Trampa

Tyres- MBS Australia 9" T2 tyres and tubes

Cheers, let me know your thoughts and if I’m forgetting anything!

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mbs F5

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Thanks mate, I’ve heard others say the same :+1:

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MBS F5! Echooooo

Lots of issues with the trampa wands. Personally I’d never use one.

Might be ok since you’re not using the trampa Faraday cage carbon fiber enclosure but not worth the risk imo.

This is a solid ass pack made by a solid ass dude. Wise choice.

Careful, this is a pretty weak ratio for pneumatics. Go 1:5 if you can sacrifice the top speed as I fear the acceleration will be underwhelming on 8" tires. 9" and 10" would be awful with a 1:4 ratio. Even a 1:5 ratio is pushing it at 9" tires. This is from someone currently riding 1:5 on 9" tires :eyes:

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Ignore. Read first post wrong…

But I would definitely go with 103mm gear drive from 3D servisas. 127 is a overkill

Also 103 will be a lot lighter.

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Cheers for the advice mate this is what I came up with on the calculator


What sort of torque should I be aiming for?

Would you recommend Hoyt St puck?

I honestly can’t tell you a specific number. I plugged in one of my offroad boards into that calc and got similar results but then noticed it didn’t change the torque values when I changed wheel size which is interesting.

Definitely. It is one of, if not the most well reputed remote used.

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Thanks mate

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I’m doing my first build and need help myself but I can’t post and make a thread :sob:

To keep the generic spam dumps, we require new users to have some basic read time before being able to make new posts. If you have a specific question, feel free to ask in the noob question thread (no offense intended, it’s just the name of the topic :upside_down_face:)

Level 2 member requirements can be found here.

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Alright lads, parts are flooding in! Just waiting on finality AT kit from 3d Servisas and MBS F5 bindings, then off to Glyph for the 12s8P Molicel p42a battery.

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Thoughts/ feedback? I’ll be taking this slow so I don’t stuff it up. My main question is regarding waterproofing, the enclosure has a rubber gasket, but are waterproof cable glands enough to waterproof the cable entry points? As mentioned in the waterproofing thread, I was also going to use sugru to doubly seal any ingress points. Also when making the xt90 loopkey, do you guys just epoxy the female side into the enclosure? Also where can I get those cool 3d printed loopkey covers/handle? Be as harsh as you like, I’d rather it now than have something fuck up later!

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https://www.sabre-dynamics.com/c-5447664/loopkeys/

You mean this?

Not exactly but they do look good! Something like that anyway, sold out unfortunately

He’s working on stock afaik. Should be done soon.

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I was thinking more like this one. Loopkey mounting. How do you do it? - #7 by Linny

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Anyone else have any thoughts on cable glands for waterproofing?

Yep, I use pg glands regularly, ride through nasty nasty, and have seen zero trace of water/dirt/mud in my enclosure.

This one specifically is a PG21 gland and the number denotes interior diameter.

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