Not a particularly special build, but people I bought parts from wanted to see the finished product This board had been functional for a while, but now I’m confident enough to call it finished.
Use case
My brother needs a way to get from home -> the train station & then from the train station -> school, and back. We have nice cycle paths, so we went with single drive 10s4p to prioritize range. The deck was his choice (originally wanted to use the MOV-E, but shipping took forever), and the other parts are a compromise between cost and reliability.
Enclosure mounting hardware: came free with another deck I bought
@chilau2000
Total cost: it’s above 1000€ for sure
Other stuff
The enclosure had a bunch of holes drilled in its end for phase wires, which I filled up with epoxy. The original power button was repurposed to turn the lights on and off. (It shines blue whenever the board is on, which is a nice visual indicator.) I also removed the original M4 threaded inserts, and replaced them with M5 ones. Accidentally drilled through the deck a few times, so the top isn’t clean
The board uses a loop key, because I don’t trust my brother to keep the battery from over-discharging during winter months. It’s connected by a thread to the truck hardware so that it doesn’t get lost, and to make it easier to pull out. Also put a piece of velcro on it so that it doesn’t hang loose when unplugged.
Unfortunately it isn’t water-resistant for shit, but that’s because this enclosure wasn’t meant for this deck I guess. I don’t even know what deck it is for
I love that deck/enclosure combo.
Looks very good and there is plenty of space for getting this thing much lower if its wanted or needed. Nice clean work, man.
I love it and your brother has to do the washing up for you for the next 5 years now i would suggest
peace bro.
I purchased some additional idlers from @Boardnamics a while back. Today I executed on my plan and drilled another hole in one of my mounts to put it in. (I didn’t like the occasional belt skip with a single one) Using these new idlers on the old mounts is a bit finicky because the cutout is too large, but I overcame that issue by getting creative with different washer combinations.
Last changes to this board for the foreseeable future is putting in a Metr module, and maybe upgrading the wheels. I can definitely fit 100mm wheels without wheel-bite, and 110 if I add another riser. Should I go 100, or jump to 110? (TB 74A ofc)
I slightly prefer my 85mm Caguamas over the Popocas, so I assumed jumping to TB100 would be a world of a difference. Or maybe Boas because they’re so much wider. But yeah, probably not gonna buy them anytime soon. Not until my brother proves he uses the thing often enough
Cags are awesome too. I have haggy pepes and prefer them but it’s really down to the individual I suppose. I’ve not seen the new boas personally but nothing will make me buy Asian thane over California thane at the same price. I might be wrong but I cant see it being better.
I turned down the settings from 65A motor, 60A battery to 60A & 50A respectively, and got another fault today. Should I turn down the values even more on my focbox, or should I blame the motor?
Another issue is that the ESC temperature shows as 25 degrees no matter what…
Put in a metr module so that we could check the battery level and speed. Also consumption is a useful metric; seems like my brother does get ~40km out of this pack, which is perfect.
Focbox did not want to work well in FOC mode anymore. I swapped it for a Trampa Vesc I got second hand from @seaborder
The wires that the lights come with are really cheap and kept breaking off, so I not only swapped them with quality copper stranded silicon wire, I also epoxied added some XT-30 connectors in the enclosure to make taking them off & on easier if needed.
Finally, I changed the motor mount (yet again). The Boardnamics one kept slipping down, and I wanted to see if I can get better ground clearance with a shorter mount.
These Whooshboards mounts by @Mikaelj really are the best!
I found that for a 15:36 gearing and dual idlers, a 295mm belt works best.
Now that it’s possible to get up our driveway without hitting the mount, I think this board will stay with 100mm wheels. It’s quite heavy as is
Only major thing that’s planned for this board is to change the trucks to Surf Rodz TKP. Get some of that maneuverability back, and also because I’ve been stealing this board so much from my brother that the e-caliber trucks are now definitely bent
Oh, and the push-button used for the lights has become unusable from vibrations; it no longer holds its ON state. Also, I still haven’t swapped the Nano X to a better remote. If only there was a business local to me that made a small, reliable remote, that you could use to toggle lights on and off…
So much for my DIY 3-pin JST I made by cutting a sensor connector in half. Luckily, the Flipsky VX1 from @Anubis includes a 3-pin JST for PPM usage
Unless another remote swap happens soon, I’ve decided to replace the power button for the lights with an on-off switch from a dead PC power supply. Probably won’t be documenting that since it’s not that exciting
Oh, and I bought some Surf Rodz trucks for the deck, but unfortunately they extend the wheel-base too much, and then the big wheels don’t go into the wheel-wells of the deck, and cause wheel bite Might end up on another board one day…
This board had been functional for a while, but now I’m confident enough to call it finished.
Might end up on another board one day…