Cumrocket – The prototipo alternative | Tomiboi Honeybadger | 12s5p | Lunas

After I smashed the motor on my brother’s last build, I decided I didn’t want to rebuild the board and would rather make a new one instead with upgraded components.

Goals for the build were:

  • reliability
  • dual drive
  • water resistance
  • price

For riding in wet conditions pneumatics were required, and to have the motors protected against yours truly smashing them against a curve, a carver deck with raised mounts was in order. My brother really liked the look of Lacroix’s prototipo deck:

But with the board discontinued and everyone and their dog wanting one, prices were stupid high, so we decided to build something similar using Tomiboi’s 35" Honey Badger MTB deck.

An included enclosure + inserts and bolts made building this thing a breeze :heart:

Other parts include:

  • Self-built 12s5p P28A battery with LLT BMS
  • Moon Luna 350 trucks with 0 degrees in the rear, +15 at the front. (Total is 50 front 35 rear)
  • Rockstar 2s with 6" Evolve wheels
  • Idea motor mounts
  • 2nd-hand 151kv reacher motors from @KaramQ :heart:
  • 18T and 62T pulleys from Radium
  • Maker-X DV6 Pro for the power button and auto-shutdown features
  • Sabre Dynamics ESC heat-sink
  • Sabre Dynamics Panel Mount Pro
  • Sabre Dynamics light mounts, custom (Will show later, thx @SabreDynamics )
  • Davega X
  • Puck remote
  • Duck handle

This enclosure doesn’t have much space, and since I really wanted to go with 12s for charger compatibility, I opted for 18650 cells. I’m traveling at the moment so I’ll share battery pics later, but it’s a perfect fit in the enclosure :upside_down_face: The enclosure is thicker in the middle, so the BMS lays on top of the battery.

The ESC has the top taken off so that I could solder short wires to the MR-60 connectors in the panel mount. The MR60s can slide out of the panel, which is pretty bad because then
A) Water can seep in
B) If you’re plugging in your motors the MR60s will just get pushed inside the enclosure :man_facepalming:

On the upside, it means I could actually push them from the inside into the panel mount once they were soldered; I just need to hold them still when plugging in the motors from the outside.

The included bolts for the heat-sink were slightly too long, but with a thermal pad in place they’re perfect.

Charge port and ESC are fused. Auxiliary XT-90 for range extender packs will come later. 12V buck for lights will come later. I’m busy traveling and had to get this build done in a matter of days lol.

The ESC button is not latching, and has a long press-distance, but it does trigger the ESC to turn on and off instantly. I prefer a hold-style like Stormcores have, but we’ll see if it leads to any issues.


As you can see from the clock I finished this build at 4am, so I didn’t have time to even test ride it. (But I know the deck feels nice, has more concave then you’d expect, and the trucks are great since I know them well) Got a DRV fault once when booting up, but it seems to work, so I’ll let my brother take some prettier daytime pictures and go on a ride with it while I’m away traveling.

Thanks for reading, updates will come to get the front and rear lights working :slight_smile:

Also shoutout to @EreTroN for helping this deck reach me, you and @tomiboi saved me a bunch of money, thank you!

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Great build! Love the name :sweat_drops:

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Your duck has no dick… i’m not sure how legitimate your name is for this reason alone.

Neat little build!

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Does your brother know what you named the build? :rofl:

They’re only required if you can’t deal with a board fishtailing around on you or loosing traction while breaking. :rofl:

I’ve found that the best way to avoid that is by making the holes for the mr60 just barely big enough to fit the connectors. As in it is hard to get them in there to start with. Combine that with the wires to the VESC being as short as possible (a pain in the ass to solder depending on how close the VESC is to the holes) and then add on some hotglue on the inside as an extra measure against movement.

You can also use some gasket maker stuff on the connectors between them and the panel but I’ve found most of it ends up shifted down the connector instead of between the mr60 and the enclosure. So I’m not sure if the stuff is actually helping at all tbh.

Also all of that is for panel mount directly onto the enclosure. I don’t have a 3d printer to make a fancy separate piece, but some of it could work for the piece too. I think?

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He chose the name :rofl:

Or when, you know, turning :laughing: Rubber airless would have also been a viable option, but pneumatics are nice for other reasons.

Yeah I’ll probably do that when I seal it up with butyl tape. I think sticking a bunch of butyl tape on the inside of the enclosure, around the connectors, will work well enough as well.

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Absolutely, i personally dont always trust the hot glue rigid bond alone. I use a silicone sealant (paint on) over the top of the hot glue as a flexible sealant layer over the top so that if the hot glue bond fails, water cant creep in there before its discovered.

Dunno if its best practice or not but it sure does make me feel better. This is the bomb!

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I mean, sure, you can’t carve and you have to feather the throttle if you need to accelerate + turn, but he’d figure it out eventually :rofl: That is the reason why I can ride in the rain, I had a few falls from fish tailing and learned to prevent it from happening at the cost of some skin.

Although the safer option is 100% just to not ride smooth thane in the rain or wet conditions. :rofl:

With how mine is set up there is little to no room for water to even get in between the connector and enclosure to begin with. Sure, if I took a power washer to my build it would probably get wet inside, but water shouldn’t be able to easily drip in on its own. Then add the liquid gasket making stuff (typically used for cars) and hot glue for extra measure and I’m pretty confident it can’t get in.

For riding in the rain and through unavoidable puddles at least. It won’t be water proof for complete submersion for more than a minute or two while on. Might even be for less time than that tbh

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Isn’t there some penalty for people openning build threads after having made a “leaving esk8” thread ? XD
Anyway I’m glad you’re back to reason

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Oh I ordered the deck for this build as soon as it came out, I was just waiting for all the parts to arrive to finally build it lol. Multiple prebuilts that would have suited my brother better have come out since I started buying parts for this build :confused:

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I guess one of the hall sensors in the motor was dead.

My brother kept instantly getting DRV faults, I did an entire ESC swap, tried swapping sides, etc. Something about hall sensors, these motors, and this ESC doesn’t like to play along.

Luckily VSS is pretty good on FW6, so that’s what I set up. At 80A per motor this board rips! Blows my mind the ESC could be pushed even further :see_no_evil:

Currently playing around with bushing setups, and I just remembered I forgot to change the thermistor beta value, whoops. For reacher motors it’s 3950, FYI. Not the default in vesc tool.

This deck feels way too short for me personally. Wasn’t unstable, but that + APS bushings really made me scared pushing it to max speed.

Here are some more pics




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Sorry? What and where is this? Wasnt aware it required changing, what does it affect?

Under motor settings → Temperature. It affects what temperature vesc tool thinks the motor is at; it will throttle you too early otherwise. Only needs to be done for reacher motors.

image

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Board is for sale :cry: