eh I disagree. its all the same to me.
the best is desktop VT on a touchscreen laptop, catch me zipping around the settings tweaking 10 things in 20 seconds
the magic of lifepo4 is that they always settle in the 3.3 range but i know you know that. guess i should get a new bms though… one that doesn’t shut off as soon as the first cell hits 3.65
Me not having a windows pc and being able to do it on my phone.
Used wife’s laptop for a couple of builds. Freesk8 app on my last one. Easy peasy. Quad motor detection over CAN. 
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My brother’s esk8 uses a Never Summer Reaper. It’s good! Just can’t use large wheels because it’s a top-mount, and my enclosure for it was quite small 
I plan to upgrade him to a tomiboi deck soon
Hmm, you’re in Austria? If you want I could sell you my deck + enclosure; since it already has inserts! Fits a 10s4p of 18650 cells and dual ESC + BMS.
Build thread:
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thanks, I appreciate the offer!
I would use pretty wide hangers (as I am using 63100 motors).
I don’t actually need an enclosure, as I am using a 14s4p powertool battery and will mount the ESCs at the rear of the deck in an ESC enclosure.
I would like a Trampa holypro 15° best, but unfortunately 13ply is WAY too flexible for me - even the 15ply from the other 15° board is too flexible =(
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Can anyone share insight on eboosted mounting hardware?
Ive got an enclosure coming soon and am wondering if the m6 bolts and countersunk fender washers I already have will work. I see they offer m5 bolts but list no spec on the washers.
M6 fender washers will likely be too wide. M5 is tops on what I can use on my eboosted enclosure.
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need a spintend switch
is this the right type to be used with?
I replaced a dudes stock esc with a stormcore 60d+ and swapped to a bypassed bms a week ago.
Dude says everything is going well but just messaged me last night saying his voltage is dropping a ton under any accel, even on the bench. He sent me this video:
Apologies that it is in percentages, I had him switch it to voltage but didn’t get another video.
I’ve verified that he has it set up as 13s and the correct capacity so I’m curious why it’s dropping so significantly.
I wired the bypass bms like this:
What’s really odd in that video above is that the battery sags a bunch when he takes it to about 25mph but then levels off while he held that speed.
Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. I don’t want this guy hitting low voltage cutoff out of nowhere.
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How big is the pack? He’s consuming a fair bit after all.
Is this how the discharge to the ESC is wired?
When I was hooking up a friend’s prebuilt pack from the factory I remember checking 3 things to determine the battery amp settings on a 13s4p
Cells (7x4=28)
Nickel strip width and thickness (38A)
Battery lead AWG (40A)
Ended up with only 30A
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Only a 13s4p which is what I’m keeping in the back of my mind. It’s the Ownboard Zeus so I believe the Tesla 3 cells which mooch rated for 10a continuous.
@jaykup that is exactly how. What brand / pack was it may I ask?
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In the video you can see that he’s drawing 30A before the notification pops up. So I think the voltage sag is expected; he should probably limit his battery current to 20A per side.
Strange that his consumption is so high on the bench though, I wonder if something is causing drag
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The bench part is confusing me too. I’ll check it out more today just to be safe.
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tight belt is usually main cause
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It was on two ebike batteries of different brands. I bypassed the BMS on them. They are definitely not built for high amps.
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The nickel tabs did feel pretty thin. I’ve never built a pack myself before but I thought pictures of packs here had a lot thicker tabs.
The rest of the pack looked decent to my eye.
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The 2x 14awg is great, but the nickel looks like 4x0.15x7mm? So probably ~60A there but hard to know without measuring
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