Get a non-vesc 
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Couple questions, i have a hoyt puck, got used, receiver has the little black 3pin, can i connect that directly to stormcore or no, and if no which of these would i need?
Also, i swear i read somewhere here that you have to jerry rig davega to get it working on stormcore, is that still true? Or was that an early stages thing? Thank you for any insight.
Does anyone have the mounting pattern measurements for Infinityhubs by @surfnacho or haggy bergmeisters? Seems like Anshul quit esk8 but I still have the wheels he made. I need to get some drivetrain made for them.
https://electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-to-chain-on-bergmeister-haggyboards-wheels/81698
Found this on Google, but it seems ESB is down again. Has anyone managed to scrape and archive it?
Stormcore has a bit of oddness on the 5v can and if used with a Lacroix sentinel board there is some additional oddness. No solved afaik
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The makerx will work? Out of stock for stormcore?
So if i use uart and no sentinel i should have less or no issue? 
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I think the stormcore pwm plug is the larger size jst connector but I dont have one to reference. I want to say it’s the jst 2.54mm xh female 3pin… but im not 100%. They have them at mboards and those guys are pretty awesome. I bet if you email them they could sell you one of the ppm cables as they took over the stormcore ip and sell new ones.
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I’m 99% sure this is correct
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Hey guys,
It’s been almost a year that I’ve been pondering over building a few vehicles.
I have worked on several designs, prototypes, and failures but have never really finished the project.
I wanted to make something small enough to carry in a backpack that could boost me up to a substantial speed, have a substantial amount of range, enough torque to climb steep hills, have the equipment to ride on and off-road, be allowed on flights, and be reliable overall.
I originally considered going for a small, powerful board like the Tynee Mini 3 Pro, but it was too big.
Then I considered something like electric Heely shoes, but that wouldn’t be able to go off-road.
I finally landed on something like the Linky board–good enough power and torque, enough range for me, incredible portability–but I would like to have a few improvements.
Speed–I want this board to be able to go up to 30 mph, instead of the claimed 26.
Torque–I want this board to have enough torque to climb 40% grade hills, instead of the claimed 25%.
Range–I want this board to have up to 18+ miles of range, instead of the claimed 14*.
Portability–I want to be able to take this board on a flight and have it be small enough to carry in a backpack.
Off-road capability–I want this board to be able to tackle severe terrain.
Budget–If it can cost under $1,500, that would be great, but I am flexible in this aspect.
This might as well be too ambitious of a build, but looking at the wonderful (and quite honestly, unbelievable) builds I have seen in this community, it should be possible.
So these are my questions:
What motors should I use?
Should I stick with the Linky board design?
What battery/batteries should I use?
What wheels/trucks should I use?
I would love to hear from you all, since after all, this is my first build.
*14 miles with the 185Wh battery, which isn’t even airplane-legal
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You’re going to need to make some compromises, any of these goals are individually achievable but you’re asking of the off-road capability of a tank, the portability of a penny board, with the top speed, price, and range of a mid tier AT board.
If you want off-road capability you need:
1: pneumatic tires which means very little range on a 99wh pack and wouldn’t fit in a backpack.
2:SR125 wheels which may fit in a backpack, but would also make for less efficiency and wouldn’t get the range you want.
If you want to climb a 40% grade, you’ll need incredibly wide tires, 4WD, very large motors, a very powerful battery and powerful VESCs. Which has 0 chance of fitting in a backpack, will quickly surpass your budget and also couldn’t be powered off of a 99wh battery.
I’ll use examples as well, if you’re looking to build something portable with impressive range, @Pecos built Blue Koi
@sevenfloorsdown built Boardup V4
The only things I could see climbing a 40% grade are things like @Dinnye’s RaceBoi
Or @poastoast’s Stop Resisting
None of these builds have flight safe batteries though, that’s really tough to build around IMO
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First decision is if you are willing to let go of it fitting in a backpack. If you absolutely need it to fit in a backpack you are looking at something like the boardup build mentioned above by @Egtscs. This will limit you to about 100mm wheels (forget any offroading), relatively low power (you are looking at something like a 10S1P pack, there simply isn’t enough cells to make good power), and low range unless you are hotswapping the battery modules mid ride (doable if you design for it).
If you need offroad capability, good power, and a platform that won’t be sketchy when ridden at speed, you are looking at something that you put into a large pelican case like the Vault V800 (or a copy of it, as copies go for way cheaper). It’ll need to go into the case in a half assembled state, without a battery, and if needed for fitment maybe with the wheels taken off as well, then the case can get checked in. The battery needs to go into your hand luggage, in separated max 99Wh modules. Weight of the parts is something you need to consider, as the pelican case is going to weight like 10kg (22lbs) in itself and there’s a max weight limit for checked in bags. Not sure if it’s the same on all airlines, but where I’ve been looking I remember something like 23kg for normal weight class or 33kg if you pay overweight fees. It’ll count as sports equipment, but probably only if you stay in the smaller weight class.
There’s one potential issue with either solution though - even if the batteries are under 99 Wh, if the security guy at the airport is an asshole, there’s a small chance he won’t let the batteries through. The chance is small, but you might loose your flight batteries if you are unlucky…
Not impossible though, I was considering it even for my raceboard build which in its current iteration is essentially a lowrider 4WD mountainboard on steroids and slick tires. For that build the plan would’ve been probably a 20S3P pack that separates into 12 modules. The construction method that I planned had it’s own inconveniences though.
If you are looking at something that has usable range on offroad capable wheels, you are looking at a battery capacity over 600 Wh at a minimum, but ideally over 1000 Wh. That means you need a battery pack that can easily be separated into less than 99Wh modules. That’s a huge amount of work to build. As a first esk8 build, I don’t recommend building your own battery, much less so building your own flight pack - it’s very involved, and needs knowledge of a lot of battery building practices (specifically from the esk8 world - as ebike and solar panel system batteries aren’t built to hold up to the same abuse), and extra engineering skills like CAD and 3D printing, without which your battery won’t look professional so the chances of it getting stuck at security would be really high.
But purchasing a large flight pack from any respectable builder isn’t necessary an easy way either, as it is going to cost you a ton of money, if they are even willing to make it. The larger the amount of cells the larger the cost.
And depending on how it’s built exactly you probably also need to take extra care and have some battery knowledge to be able to assemble it back together after landing.
The backpack way, probably yeah, and it would still be an upgrade over the linky, but wouldn’t be able to match most of your goals. Offroad capability with decent range, speed, and power with a flight pack - you are probably hovering around a 3000$ budget.
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In what fairy tale world are these offroad?
It’s a race wheel with no tread. Wouldn’t get you very far where I live.
The same one where you can make a <$1500 board with a flight safe battery that can go off-road, fit in a backpack, climb a 40% grade hill etc.
You’d be surprised by the difference between what you call off-road and what some others call off-road.
Also if you haven’t already tried it, you might be surprised by how a cheap hub motor board will do on packed gravel/dirt.
Also for the sake of argument.
They’re a step up from regular 90-110mm urethane in terms of capability off-road, obviously it’s still a step down from pneumatics but something on his proposed build has to be compromised for it to exist.
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Oh I’ve ride my fair share of hub boards. The issue is in wheel size and tread when the road is so loose your wheels just rooster tail, or when you hit a rock that’s 0.5mm too big and eat dirt.
Even if just going across a grassy field, slick thanes may get the job done, but really badly.
excuse me good sir,
don’t badmouth my world here
you just have skill issue
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Not bad-mouthing your world, just saying race gear wouldn’t survive out here in the real world.
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*cough
both 09 and Stop Resisting are living proof that race components can in fact handle the real world if you design and build them right sooooooooooo
eat my shorts maple syrup man, you got skill issue
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Everyone knows Canada isn’t a real place you can’t fool me
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How many states are there again? 
