Project Stop Resisting: a testbed of sorts | 21s 4wd fucc-it-we-ball build | bonus gear drive development!

aight ya cucks n cunts!
grab your strap-ons and strap in cause it’s a long one
my first time with this build thread stuff too, i think. at least, a complete one lol

It all started on Aug 26, i’m on my board whippin it on I2S


me and @zero_ads :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

but oh no, I went fast n ate ass


what happened?

ABS Overcurrent fault, cause i didn’t have slow ABS on oops

What can we do about this?

option 1: turn on slow ABS , which would absolutely fix my issue

option 2: replace the escs in my board to something new and hopefully more capable

option 3: make a whole ass new board

take a gander at what option i chose :smile:

let’s begin

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So what’s the plan?

this is the old gal, 21s 4wd MTB

my old board was great, and I could still run it (not anymore lol), but it came up short here and there. It was a bit clunky? it was big. I struggled a bit on turns, tho not terribly. I could really use the bindings to my advantage and crank it, but, tight tracks leave me desiring a bit more maneuverability. the airs could be more maneuverable but I lose out on a lot of high speed stability. and I like my trucks to not feel like imm standing on a narrow pipe, I like consistent resistance and a linear sorta lean, like i’m standing on , a wide pope lol more than a narrow pipe if that makes sense :thinking:
speed-wise I got no issues. I’ve taken her up to 82kph, (long time ago) so I’ve got no quarrels with that. pleeeenty speed.

well, my new board needs to have a bit more headroom for performance overall, and be able to deal with all the riding i’ve learned to do on the MTB… ooh, and AVS is coming up! maybe I can have it be the goal to have it made by then!

ok… so let’s start, with the deck, the thing that sets the vibes for the rest of the parts selection and how the build goes, yeah?
WRONG
we start with gear drives! [I lied, battery specs!]

well, my old board is on 21S… @zero_ads and @Shadowfax are on 21S… I made the chat we’re in specifically cause 21S, it’d be cheating not to be on 21S! and we’re all building 21S boards roughly round the same time. So here’s the final to the 3 stooges! (haha, pun intended, even though none of us are building stooge boards lmao)
so if you can’t tell, we’re running 21S.

Normally, i’m a hoe for my modular packs, 6S1P of P42A, or in my recent case, 7s1p packs of p28a. but, I’ve decided to ball out and run p45B. and My packs doo take up a lot of space, and I won’t be needing to travel as much given I no longer have to travel between home and school. horray! so I could just do a normal brick pack? in short. No.

so I need at least 35-40 miles of range, to be able to keep up with da local hooligans running that distance between charges. ok. I normally get around 20 Wh/km, max around 25Wh/km . So off that, I need at LEAST 2kWh.

that doesn’t math though, 2kWh should surely get you 50-63 miles right?

well, you see, I though I’d be ok doing 20 miles on 21s4p p28a on my old board… ~850Wh! at 25Wh/km that’s minimum 21 miles! hahahahahahah. nah. I only made it 18 miles :grinning:. So i had 850Wh theoretical. but I 80% of that is actually deliverable. So before I relize i’ve cut myself short, imma gotta keep that in mind. Long Story Short. 35-40 miles, I need 21S5P P45B. great! We got the battery settled.

what else?

So I guess, it won’t be an MTB, since i don’t want it to be a rebuild of my ild board basically. But, it won’t be a thane board either. I wouldn’t survive on those with the rides that go on around where i am. so it’s RS tires. cause 8" is too big for me :smirk:, and I like the grip fo the V2. (saves some cost too not needing to buy new wheels)

speed, well, if it’s for AVS, I think mid-high 40s is gonna land me in a good spot.

there we go, we need:

a durable street board
35-40 miles range
at least 45 mph
light as we can make her
a bit more turn than the MTB

15 Likes

gear drives

anyways…
why gear drives?

1: cause they’ll take the longest to design and
2: idk what my deck is gonna be and it’s too much thunk to figure out the other parts :joy:

so in cums Aug 29, we begin designing!

what’s the constraints?

well funny you ask, I got 1 goal: be as light as I could sorta do atm. oh, that plus straught cuts. ONLY straight cuts. helical smh my head :face_vomiting:. Oh, and they need to be simple and easy to service. simplicititty is king. ~4.4 from da jump drives is an great ratio, but i think I might be able to benefit from a bit more torque, so after much thinking for a couple minutes… 19:89 it is. ~4.68:1.
good. on 21S, it should give me about 49mph tops accounting for 80% efficiency on RS tires. good enough.

so how how about this weight?

well… let’s think about it. Jump drives are just about the lightest in the game afaik… how heavy are they? I probably measured em but I forgot, but iirc rhey’re … sub 600g? ok good start. since I mostly do street riding, I can probably reduce weight by running open drives DUN DUN DUN.

what about rocks n debris?? won’t you run into stuff getting caught between the gears?

Yes and No. while I find my gear drives bottom out quite often, I don’t see many things that hit anywhere else especially on outboard motors. i mean, if @zero_ads and @Yeahthatperson can survive with stooge drives, i should be fine! But, to cover that concern, how about I make basically a gear drive equivalent to belt covers? does that mean I kinda made a hybrid gear drive, call em… semi-open gear drives? maybe?

Partially
Open
And
Straight-cut
Teeth

drives? abso-fuccin-lutely.

well, after a long timenof designing, cum Aug 31 we got V1 up!






not bad eh? well, it’s not good enough

So we’re still on Aug 31. We need to rethink these drives.

whats wrong with them?

Well, funny you ask!
1: some parts are just a bit too similar to jump drives, like the hanger mount. I need more originality. think outside the box! Oh! btw at this point I decided I wanted @Tony_Stark 's R6 trucks! they’d be sick to try out! now the problem is: they’re narrow af. too narow to even try running 6355s outwards mounted (in relation to the deck). because of this new width constraint, if i’m gonna try to force reverse mounting, I need to make the drives close to the wheel as I can get them. So I need to rethink the hanger mounts anyways.
2: they expensi. I need to work out the parts so they’re more friendly to machine and material costs, especially the motor mount (the green part)
3: weight reduction and simplification

well, we start from mostly scratch again! squeeze all the width I could out

cum Sept 1
we’re all done! V2… sorta. i make too many changes to keep track at this point lol, and itms not the end yet!




I got support for 22x22 square, Hoyt Rosa trucks, and the R6!
I removed the motor adapter plate bit, changed the hanger mount, so it acts as the holder for the motor plate and the bearing seat, similat to BN M1AT (but with the angle adjustment resolution of the Jump drives :yum: 6°)

at this point the plan was to for some reason have space between the wheel gear and hub, and use the wheel adapter plate, which mounts the gear to the hub to replace the hex nuts in MBS mount tires. 1 and 2 are mostly satisfied, but not 3.

so let’s redo. Let’s make a change

cum Sept 2!





I made a 4th hanger adapter, for 3ds trucks

and changed it to again, similar to M1AT, but still

and improvement :yum:
the wheel asapter is now to sit flush against the hub, and the hub will need 5mm of threads sticking out, covered by some TPU socks, wich interface with the 5 holes on the adapter plate.

we got servicability, simplicity, and we reduce weight and costs!

so that’s it?

that’s it. drives done! 4 days :yum:
estimated sub 450g guaranteed before bearing n hardware (irl measurements later on). at least a 100g reduction from jump drives! the gear mesh area is protected, with about a 0.5mm gap between the cover and wheel gear. and the wheel adapter protects the outer face so nothing can come in from the sides

the wings one the kotor plate provide plenty protection from bottoming out, albeit with limited effective angle settings to allow them to do their job. this’ll be addressed later.

at this point, R6s were ordered and are still the primary truck-of-choice. I am unable to make outboard motor mounting work on them still with the gear drives… so inboard mount it is… a tru test of my semi-open drives.

11 Likes

the other parts

ok, the gear drives are done… so how about the rest of the stuff? deck, battery, enclosure, electronics?

well that’s tough.

electronics, that’s easy. I got a Z mote double trigger, sweet! but I got lazy after taking it apart to make a gas pedal for my thumb. and after hearing of some not-ideal occurences, i just resorted back to my trusty Pucc :yum:.

21s5p is a not a small pack, and I think I’d like to have a bit more deck space than haveing a pelican case that can hold that. even though I’m still running bindings lol. ok, so… What do we do? under deck enclosure? how’s that gonna work? what about something similar to @glyphiks where the pack is split top and bottom?

that could be sick! I like that idea. slim, good looking, and flexible.
I’ve never done and underside enclosure… so how’s this gonna go? I could try making custom printed enclosure modules… top side is easier cause I have experience with that both with pelican cases and the Kitty boxes from before. but underside… that’s a noggin smoggin process.

but what about the deck?

yeah, I need to figure that out too. I wassss thinking of a hoyt Tabor… it is a good deck and it has an enclosure too! not a bad plan…
or maybe a dadbod? that’s even more deck room. After some consultation however… dadbod/UAV require their custom enclosure due to them being a structural component, without that enclosure the deck is not gonna work out…

and as for the tabor, the deck’s contours are way too tough for my skills to make a printed enclosure work, and using the hoyt enclosure would mean interference with the gear drives cause remember, inboard.

[edits on hold until the weekend]

9 Likes

Sept 9

Alright after some consultation, we have found a deck!
so as it turns out, UAV/Dadbod require the enclosure because that is a structural component to the deck. so that issss out… the Hoyt tabor, is a better choice, but it has a lot of very complex curves that are beyond my skill level to make an enclosure for, sooooooooo

@IDEA deck it is!

looks sick, was on sale, and is flat ish! simple

ez pp squeezy

Sept 13

i also got my remote!

should be siiiiiiiiiick. I need to add a gas pedal tho. i like me thumb off to the side if i’m not braking. you know what that means? disasssembly! we’ll get back to that later

oh also, back to gear drives





prototype printed nicely! no changes needed to make em fit (we’ll get back to that later)

2 Likes

Sept 22

so the deck came in! hell yeah!

but before we get to that

the gears were, partially made!



we’ll get back to that later

now comes the planning for layout. and that is a doozy

I was stting how many cellsni could fit inderneath if i did an undermount enclosure sorta thing. and dam

shit’s tight. I could really only fit around 6-8 cells max from left to right and rhat’s already a squeeze before i get into the space where i’d need threaded inserts…
and with 6 rows deep it’s not gonna be a lot of cells, maybe unless i double srack stagger.

Sept 30 this date thing is getting wild lol
now, if i’m to successfully to make an underside enclosure, Imma need to get the shape of this deck


and so, copy the profilewe shall.
and after some really funky pics
we got ouselves a deck mockup! This’ll be good to print a pretty close profile to the underside deck and will let me make a nice footpad up top too for the cable wiring from the middle box.


not only that’ we also got a bracket kockup too so i don’t have yo bend me head with the gear drives

1 Like

but oh no! plans don’t look good

Oct 4



these underside stuff isn’t looking hot. so Imm sidliningnit for now.

das ok, plans change! and rn, i’ve been carrying around a pelican 1170 to carry all my cells and we got TIGHT n SPICY layout coming up. uhhh magically i gott first pucs of my tab templates! this changes later on but it’s what we got.

oooh double plans change :eyes::eyes::eyes::eyes::eyes::eyes:

at this point, the R6 is not destined to arrive in time for AVS (back on that in a sec). sooooooo we got big news



we got them @hoytskate ROSAs! noww. the stock baseplate? too thicc for the brackets. what do we do! @Boardnamics 48° baseplate and @Skyart 30° baseplate lmaooo.


huge plans huge plans!
so back to the battery real quick. sooooo now with underside sidelined, what’s the plan?
top mount bb. pelican 1170 is the right boi for the job’

idk where the escs will go, and idk what i plan to do about it. but here’s a possible layout :thinking:

mayhaps like this?

sideways escs straddling front to back on a straifht brick pack? hell ya that rhymes, it’s a good idea!

oh but oh no! it won’t actually fit that way :joy:

but of course, naturally

i started moving my cells and escs around between home and work and home and work like this :thinking:


sideways triple stagger, 2 layers
and the case closes! based on ideal dimensions, i got 2mm of headroom. plenty! and it solves my onstacle of cable exitings from the box! just have a hole down the center? have a riser beneath to allow cables to go straight to the motors. ez pz!



cell’s’ll look like this
board’ll look like that. bam a wam! ok ok
plans are good plans are good! we can start building!

3 Likes

OH ITS ABOUT TO GET REAL

BUILD TIME BB


so I got some wonderful ZBMSs, and we got a good idea of where to put the escs

Battery!

so gluing this was interesting. it ain’t no brick, and it aintm no normal stagger for this construction, so What i did was make 21 groups of 3 cells in a chevron config. shoutout to @YUTW123 for making good escs cases, they’re perfect for a battery lineup tool





and of course I need the most space i can squeeze out of my stuff so flexible and thin material is needed for isolation. so wht we do? Tesa tape! helllllll yeah. thicc enough to space cells apart, abrasion resistant (rated), and way more flexible than fiber tape. I’ve done this on quite a few of my old packs, and it’s done quite well so far, and it’s even made it into @Shadowfax 's new board!




wam a bam, ez pz and it’s pretty too. up next, tabs! I don’t got no fancy laser cutter and 8/10mm strips is janks so what we do? template, trace, cut, flatten! it took some time cutting, and some hand strength, but with good scissors, it came out quite nice.



we then got some welding! this was sketch AF, super scary, cause the chevron makes a very percarious situation where the middle cell sticks into the next group so one wrong move and we get skme zappies

but we good! After the main tabs were done, i got some 24x10mm strips of .2, and welded to the negative cell in each tab group, and bam we got some balance tabs! keeps the wiring way easier without needing them to bend around the edge (you’ll see how it goes). the hardes t part was welding a buncch between the 2 bars of packs. gotta be super careful, and put enough down not to add too much resistance. so we laaaaaid it down! (next time i might just do braided copper, that’s more guaranteed to be easier maybe? but it still works out with welding)




and final assembly! we isolate with good fiber, and some double sided tissue tape, super good to get them stacks together. bent th balance tabs all nice n flush, it’s looking hotter than my internet wife (wait, she dun exist nvm)




aight we keepin it on topic, but I didn’t get wiring done for a few days, but let’s keep it simple. wiring time!

so we got 2 rows, just straight down then back, esy peasy wiring job. gotta do all the wire swaps before it goes on the pack, no need to cross over and it’s just mm shefs kiss. tissue tape is perfect for laying the wires, no need to glu or anything of that sort just lay it and it sticks, and it’s thin! long as i got the order right, it’s a super fast process just trim strip and solder!




bam! battery pack wrapped and complete.

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hhh.

1 Like

iii.

jjj.

lets keep it PG

5 Likes

lll.

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mmm.

that’s probably enough reserves :bowing_man:

nopqrstuvwxyz

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Wouldn’t it be good to just do this now? If it’s the only board you got might as well keep it working and…

I always found this the best part of esk8, so what’s wrong with having to build a whole other board :man_shrugging:

2 Likes

Weellllllll there’s a story there too lol and let’s just say it didn’t end well.

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Lmao

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There was a convenient mattress laying about?!!

Excellent. Well played. :laughing:

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