I mean, during operation, who cares the use of the board is gonna be far more impactful, it’s more if there’s parasitic drain that would be concerning, because that’s something where you’d have a constant uneven drain while the board is not in use.
It should be in the .010 range unless the display is extremely bright iirc the test i did on one of my old 10p built in battery levels indicator. Anything that would take a few months to change the actual battery soc by a tenth of a percent imo
Test and math it vs the battery capacity. Easy
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For others… i believe overheating was caused by the phase filter setting in vesc tool. Ive gathered it must be turned off for makerx.
Ive downgraded to fw 5.3, things seem to be working. I have yet to push things on a longer ride. Now another question.
Can phase filters be turned off after detection, or they must be turned off before?
I now recieve from the foc wizard two motors reading “temp comp: false” is this normal or did i burn up the thermistor or something?
Thanks!
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Why my charger doin dis?
~50% charge. First plug in of the year. Battery was stored at a solid level (75%)
i’ve seen this happen when your BMS opens the charge circuit when something’s wrong. If you have a smart bms, check that. If not, bust out the multimeter and check your P Groups
its also entirely possible it’s the charger, worth investigating the health of the pack first before continuing
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I is the symbol for current. Pretty sure that’s your motor current.
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I am not well versed on electricity, but i am going to be running 12s?p to a ubox on a mtb, can i run 12 awg between the enclosures, or should i just go with 10awg? I have been trying to read some posts, but it all just sounds foreign to me and makes my head hurt 
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You planning on maxing out the ubox battery amps? If so do the 10 awg. If not probably 12 is fine but you can’t go wrong with 10 if you’re only running a single ubox and nothing crazy
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I ordered some custom gear drive adapters for newbee RTKP but they don’t quite fit,
how would y’all go about making these work? My first thought is a hand file and some sand paper but I imagine that’ll probably take quite a while. I thought about my Dremel but I doubt I have the skill to get anywhere near flat with that.
Thoughts?
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I had to do some filing on my rear hanger to get my Luna adapters to fit… maybe the best play 
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If i were to use stormcore settings would it be underwhelming riding, or too much for 12awg? I have a stormcore with recommended settings and havent had any issues on my kicktail, i do think that might be 10awg though I have no problem using 10awg, but its unavailable everywhere i seem to find xt90s, and anywhere that has 10awg has no xt90s 
i dont want to double up on shipping just for knick knacks.
How close we taking?
Hangers in the freezer, adapters in the oven close?
With those settings I would use 10. But I don’t think you fully use the battery amps. I bet you don’t hit 40mph on the kick tail and cruse there much? (very simplified - battery amps is top speed torque) put your max battery amps to +45a and 12 should be fine. You can push the boundaries a little because the actual draw isn’t continuous but that has already been partially taken into account by the ampacity on the current ratings chart @b264 compiled.
This puts you solidly past the red for 12 ( think of red as time to stop). With 45a and two esc makes 90 total battery amps. You CAN still run this but you will get hot if you stay in the maximum output of your build for long.
12awg at 45motor amps: ok to burst around top speed but not stay for long.
10awg at 45 motor amps: ok to cruse at top speed but not stay forever, cooling breaks after hard rides
12awg at 65 motor amps: burst could start causing problems, thoroughly inspect when forced to top out. Danger. Do not imho. This can start to hit solder temps and make the meat crayons
10awg at 65 motor amps: bursts at top speed but not long sessions. This is why high amp controllers have dual 10 feeds instead of one shared or people run dual singles.
These are my suggestions based off my opinions and my acceptable risk levels. I also think you will probably be happy at 40 motor amps and only notice a difference when you punch it at top speed. Maybe more noticeable at 12s but i feel plenty torquey at 12s 50a and run 10awg
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Hadn’t even considered that, I don’t think it’s quite that close but that’s definitely worth a shot.
It is not that close unfortunately, I’m making slow progress with a hand file and some sandpaper.
Cheers Folks,
I want wo Wire my flipsky dual vesc 6.7 with a loopkey. Without the Antispark switch.
First test on the bench shows me the vesc is normaly turned off when no switch is connected. Since there is no software side to it - does somebody know what pins to jump to make it always on?
Thanks, have a nice one
All p groups are measuring 3.80v ± 0.01v except the last one which is at 4.17. I’m guessing this cell is topping off and telling it to cut charge.
Best option to go ride around and drain the battery some and hope it balances back when charging?
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Dead cell or brokwn weld in that questionable group.
It now has a smaller capacity so it charges quicker.
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