Earlier this week a replacement arrived for the throttle. 10/10 customer support even though I didn’t even realize mine might just be defective to begin with. The bigger shell casing was even added in with it
I still need to install it and put it in the fridge to test it for cold temps since it is basically spring now texas has no real winter
My VESC started to feel really twitchy, and IDK why. When I’m going at a constant speed, the board seems to almost click on and off power. I’m not sure what’s going on with it. Any advice? If you need more clarity, I can try my best to explain the issue more.
Check all your connections to make sure nothing is shorting out (receiver, motors, esc, battery). Without having some sort of logging, it could be a lot of things.
What specifically happens when it cuts out? No remote control at all? Motors keep running or shut off?
it just feels like power cuts, and its only really when I’m going at a constant speed, if I’m accelerating or braking it has power and brake. I read faults before I turn the board off and it says none recorded since boot
Stormcore 60D+, FW 5.02, Both sides are the same version. I didn’t ride it for a week and it started to feel funky.
should I try updating it to 6.03 FW or no? I had a similar issue on my other DIY that had a stormcore but fixed it by reflashing FW I think
Definitely follow Venom121212’s advice and check all connections and make sure nothing has worked loose. Get some silicone or hot glue on anything that could get disconnected once you’ve cleaned and checked all the connections. Take some pics and post if you can. Cutouts are no fun - check your fault time and make sure it’s set to 80ms. Default is 500ms and can throw you off - 80ms is the current consensus for not too short to cause other issues but not too long and risk loosing your footing
Will do! I plan to open up the board soon to replace the enclosure anyway so I’ll open up the VESC too and double-check everything. Motor phase wires all have marine heat shrink on them. I am 90% sure I already set the fault time to 80ms but ill double check when I get home and see the board. Good news is I just fixed my other DIY that has been out of commission for the last 4 months with a Makerx DV6 pro so ill still have a fun board. May be back here later today or in the coming weeks. Thanks!
That is the way man, i have my other board which i refuse to put on the bench until i get my current project dialed. Gotta have 1 working board at all time lol
has anyone had motor temperature issues with the dv6s on fw 6.02?
Are there any advantages to having your deck height inline (or close to) your truck axle height?
@Ac53n I know you had an IDEA deck build that had a sizable drop. Were there any advantages you saw on that build?
Its pretty noticeable. Lower standing platform basically puts your point of contact closer to the effective point of rotation of the deck, making it more stable with a stronger center feel, whereas a higher up setup puts you further away from the point of rotation, making it more divey and unstable. This is especially noticeable if you have a topmount battery. At a 30mm drop, my prior build was damn near unrideable. At 70mm drop, it was acceptable.
My next build is also going to be a drop deck, something between 40 and 50mm drop. I refuse to go back after experiencing it. It lets you run softer bushings while retaining a solid return to center, so you can really throw yourself into a turn easier.
Gotcha, that makes sense. Thanks for that explanation. I imagine bushings could be better fine tuned if the deck height is centered at/near the axle height versus higher up
Maybe a dumb idea, but my son’s electric dirt bike project has a 4 bar gauge for battery, now it was originally 36v, I’m converting it to 20s 72v I was thinking of tapping the ground and 10s pin on the battery for the gauge to read, since the voltage across each parallel group should in theory drop evenly, the 36v gauge should show the voltage dropping @ the 10s pack the same as a 72v gauge at the 20s pack right?
Thoughts? Tell me I’m a dumb ass if I am.
Huh… i can’t think of why not. As long as you aren’t using that tap for any loads. The risks i can think of would be if there was a short or the display failed it could damage the battery by unbalancing it.
Also it seems like a lot of work to save a pretty cheap component. You could grab a volt meter off amazon for pretty cheap and use a linear regulator to supply the 5v directly from the battery voltage. I used a ZXTR2005K 100vdc to 5vdc regulator with DYKB 0-200v digital voltage meter as the display for plug in battery voltage tester but it could used as a built in display pretty easily? Just throwing around ideas
Appreciate the input, the idea was to keep the stock throttle that has the gauge built into it, just being cheap. Lol
Ahh, gotcha. Im racking my brain and I can’t find anything wrong with your plan, just put a 36v inline fuse on the tap for just incase/cya and all that. Maybe someone will pop in with a good reason not to but im stumped. Imho send it
The drain across the display might cause mildly uneven wear on the pack groups but that should be almost negligble assuming no parasitic drain.
Drain on the first 10 p groups was a concern, I’ll have to look more into it and make sure it’s won’t consume excessive amount of amps, what would be an acceptable amp draw for the gauge to be considered neglegable?
