Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

You are the man dude. I’ll got it a try here in a bit.

Edit: if I can find where to go on the App.

Funny you mention that. I initially typed out the reply based on the Unity @ 30 kHz, but then I saw this and changed it to 40 kHz for the DV6 Pro

But yeah, he’s right. On a single MCU dual motor controller 30 kHz is the max, and on the newer Stormcores they are going with the STM32F427 instead of the F405 to boost the clock speed from 168 MHz to 180 MHz. Wonder if that’s in an attempt to make it run smoother at 30 kHz.

It’s here

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Bear with me dude.

So I just go in and mess with these settings and write back and run.

Or do I change the settings. Write back.
Then run detection again.
And then run?

I’ve done it both ways, but usually just changing it and saving it works. What is it at now? 30?

Sometimes if the motor doesn’t run smoothly it’s worth changing it and rerunning detection.

Do you know which model numbers this will affect? Or will it be a mix-and-match that a single model number could have either one?

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I’ve seen it more on the 60D+ than on the 100D series of any model, but it’s not on all 60D+s. Maybe Lacroix would know for sure

Here is a thread where it’s mentioned as well:

You should be able to use more than just the F405 without any firmware modifications. I made this a while back:

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Looks like 25 khz

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Yeah 25 can be a bit noisy

Try 30 and write to both sides. Can also try 35 or 40 if you wanted, but 30 will probably work.

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Messing with it. 30 and 35 seemed the same. 40 was a bit different.
Now having control issues and only one side is going…

I think it is the app being weird.

Dude. @jaykup do you know where to set up the shutdown time on the app?

It’s under App Config → General → Shutdown Mode, but I think only some versions of the DV6 support it, or it needs custom firmware. Would have to check with @YUTW123

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It has worked on this one.

Got it.
I swear I looked.

Ok.
About to go out at 35khz

Cool @jaykup
That definitely helped.
The difference in sound was not really apparent on the bench.
But it was definitely there riding.

There is still some loud and some whining…
But not as intense and not as much of it.

I left it at 35 and did 11 miles.

I may play around with values up and down later on.

What does this do?

Should I try it with it on and at 30khz?

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So as spring gets closer I’m gonna be slapping my build back together pretty soon after the annual maintenance and little fixes, I do want to add a led underglow with a neon led strip but I want to be able to turn it off and on Individually, I was thinking about a little separate battery so it doesn’t draw power from the main batteries but not sure how I’ll be able to charge that one without a BMS and secondary charge port. Any advice and tips will be appreciated

It’s for more accurate tracking of the motor and current… but since it’s taking 2x the samples, then the switching frequency has to be reduced to compensate for the extra load on the processor. With it enabled, 30kHz is max. It only works on phase shunt designs like the VESC 6.

It won’t hurt to experiment with it, but it probably won’t affect the sound of the motor

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So I’m a bit confused on what an anti-spark switch does, and if one is needed or recommended. Is it unsafe to not use an antispark?

You ever plugged something in and heard an unsettling POP?

Antispark switches either imply circuitry on an esc or switch that mitigates this popping when connecting to power. The idea being, when you make the connection, instead of a flood of power to your sleepy electronics, it’s a trickle at first but then powers everything up (all done so quickly you can’t even tell).

Some escs claim they have antispark protection built in. The switches that come with these escs are just dumb momentary switches. A lot of unities antispark circuits would die so people would just bridge the pins in the dumb switch (faking always on) and instead, use an xt90 loop key as a switch. It’s a connector with a built in resistor that does a phenomenal job at stopping the spark pop from happening. They are 100% the most reliable antispark used in esk8.

Some companies sell antispark switches separately where the antispark is built into the switch instead of the esc. These have been hit or miss over the years but I haven’t kept up with the newest iterations in the last year or 2.

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u mean something like this?

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