I was thinking more of it just straight cutting off if the voltage dropped too low as it was designed to need at least 36v. So it would only really protect a 10s battery. However, the specs state it supports 3s to 12s so looks like it would only be able to protect a 3s battery.
Still would love to know if anyone has any idea about it potentially having a built in bms or not. I won’t use it as one, but I’m curious if that was an intended use or not. 
not
Just use a BMS for discharge if you want that. But make sure the BMS can do more current than you’ll put through it, because cutouts aren’t a good time
Then wtf is that jst connector for?
Also the battery already has a BMS which should be bypassed for discharge. Bought the battery +VESC + deck and enclosure together and they already worked together. Bought different motors and trucks for it, but they did work together before I took everything apart to fix all the issues that bothered me. improving the fit of the enclosure to make it more water resistant, adding length to phase wires to make them work with 1" wires, etc
The 2 pin JST port just goes to a voltage display / voltage led bar to monitor the battery charge level. It outputs battery voltage and only turns on when the Unity is powered on.
Unitys do provide 5v on any of the 5v pins, but the buck (built into the DRV8301) is pretty small at only 1.5A, and not all of that is available as it has to power all the 3.3v logic stuff.
Using the 5v is fine for low power stuff like remote receivers and BLE modules, but it’s better to run lights and other power hungry addons off a separate buck converter IMO.
There is no hardware battery protection or hardware BMS functions on the ESC. Just whatever voltage cutoffs you set in the firmware.
Firmware wise there is extra c code in the hw_unity.c file for startup and shutdown of the anti-spark circuit driven by an LM5060 chip, but nothing referencing voltage/battery protection beyond what the stock firmware provides.
Would that display happen to be roughly this size?
I thought it might have been a window for a display of some sort but I had no idea what the display was for since I didn’t buy it with one. The remote I bought for it has battery monitoring though so I don’t really need it anyway. remote and receiver it came with cannot monitor the battery
I didn’t remove it and fill it in with epoxy because it was already well sealed within the enclosure so it wouldn’t be a place for water to leak in. 
I thought it was as bit odd if it did have a BMS built in but the language on the features was very vague and that port did remind me of what charging ports use. It being for a display makes so much more sense though
It is nice to have further confirmation that it does, in fact, have its own anti-spark and that the sites selling it weren’t making that bit up.
Yes, they are frequently found in that size. That’s probably one right there. That might plug right into that JST 2 pin connector.
That is just a piece of acrylic and a frame where you’d slot in the display. I don’t have the actual LCD for it. It was either lost by who I bought the VESC from, or they were sold it without the display. pretty sure it just got lost though since he had to search for the BT module. IDC if I don’t have it though
I might have some extra, or they are cheap af on AliExpress
Personally I’d go with a Davega or Roxie instead. Or just check the app. Those displays are less than useful
It isn’t really any sort of priority to add one back. I only use remotes with displays since I am used to having battery levels and current speed visible on my remote. I don’t want to pull put my phone to check critical info.
They look cool, but I just don’t think they add enough to be worth the price for me. plus I don’t have a good place to mount one as I stand on top of where they typically go.
Get a metr pro CAN, and be done with it.
Next gen robogotchis are on the horizon too
Hello 
long time no post. As my interests come and go in waves and the esk8-wave just hit me again, I am back to seek some advice from the hive mind:
So I never finished a build using a hi5ber lotus deck. I am using large wheels, some big risers and custom straight brackets with nkp 3-links, mounting the risers and brackets on top of the deck, which means the board would sit pretty low to the ground.
I am using 63100 motors, so I am considering going above 12s and at least 6p.
My question is:
In your opinion, should I skip the risers and mount the battery under the deck with a custom enclosure (which I’d have to make), or should I get the 3Dservisas battery enclosure (which would fit the ESC enclosure) and mount it up top, keeping the board low?
(pic for reference - screws haven’t been tightened yet obviously)
I’m all for function over form. Top mount that sucker and keep it loooow. Welcome back!
So.
Say your 6384 190kv motors are super loud and whinny.
Are there any settings in Vesc to mess with to help with that?
Running 12s9p BAK on DV6P on 5.3
95 motor amps
75 battery total
I don’t remember these being so loud on the previous set up on a Unity.
You can adjust the foc → advanced → zero vector frequency
With “sample in v0 and v7” off, you can set the zvf between 20-40. Up to 30 with v0v7 enabled. 20 is loud and right around 25 it starts to get quiet, but sometimes the motors have a weird resonance with a specific rpm/zvf combo so you can experiment and see what works
Be careful here because you don’t have as much headroom to raise them on a single MCU, dual motor controller.
The dual MCU, dual motor controllers you should be able to raise these more.
I’m not actually sure where the cutoff is though, and it might vary, depending on things.
The Loud motors are on a DV6P.
That is two separate, right? . Not same set up as a Unity?.
