official website: BattAir Plugin - ISDT
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I wish i knew about it earlier!!
I might still get a pack of them, even if i really should replace those 3 year old lipos 
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dis ur local amazon link:
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I just swapped out the @DEEIF’s red and orange riptide bushings to grey and green Krank barrels.
I just moved to pretty cool, long (a mile? ), steep enough, refresh paved road with bike lanes. So, hopefully I can go Fast again.
I’ll read the battgo manual later, the ability to ping a pack and know which one it is and also the voltage using only ur phone is work the 10$
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Ohhhh yeah I forgot about that, some nice carviness for my weight at 40mph
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The battgo does not keep continuous logs of voltages. Or Max and mins for a run. Metr, Robogotchi, wavrx do comprehensive logs anyway.
I guess this is great if you have a several lipo packs that look the same. Bet @MoeStooge or riders would appreciate this.
The battair system obviously shines if you use the battair chargers. It’s one touch charging, custom to that specific pack and your presets. Can’t mess it up all.
Board was spooky. Cut out 3-4 times. Its the battery leads.
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Too long?
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Probably. I’ll open it up this week and post wiring layout.
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Themed runs of decks. This isn’t even weird and is something I’ll probably be pursuing. Be on look out for a set of adventure time decks coming up soon enough xD
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If that suspension is damped though, expect a Wh/km consumption of ‘yes’
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It was originally an April fools joke 
Imagine the maintenance procedures.
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To use an aluminum foil pan as a mold to make fiberglass enclosures. They come in a pretty convenient size to. 9x13 for short boards and 9× 25 ( I think) for longer boards. Plus the pan is designed to give it very good structural integrity for it size.
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Edit: Seems you deleted your post…but below is my answer anyway.
It depends on what you’re looking to test. Generally, any test that you want to be representative of a situation for a certain device, needs to approximate said situation.
If you’re just testing whether or not a specific ESC can sustain X amount of amps, then generally you would use FOC open loop into a motor that can handle that current, and then monitor thermals.
Since that generally still leaves the battery in current relatively low, you could then set up a dynamometer to simlate torque load on a motor at a certain RPM, and funnel that back to require more current draw from the battery.
A power supply likely isn’t going to be able to provide 50-75v at tens of amps, unless you’ve got quite the budget. So a battery of a representative size would be appropriate.
Generally, most folks who are interested in testing such things simply use the most practical test jig available, which is an actual eskate they’ve built, and then substitute the part in to test.
Of course, that’s dangerous should the part fail, but it’s usually cheaper for someone who doesn’t have a whole shop’s worth of stuff to make testing jigs.
You could also design a specific PCB based testing jigs like what Future Motion does, but that takes engineering talent and money.
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Inb4 frank 
Would sanding off the ano and polishing the cans of a motor help keep it cooler by a couple of degrees because of better reflectivity? Would there be a reason not to?
HA!
But like unironically lol. My black enclosure gets warm just sitting out there in the sun, the motors probably are too, and they heat up faster during use at least on my setup.
In theory it would work, and painting them white would theoretically work even better.
Inb4 mikey