This was explored a bit in builders and became quite heated, as you can imagine
Tldr: the cost and complexity of building a dif would simply not be commercial enough for anyone to sell. A few people said they might give it a go independently for science.
You also lose the redundancy of a second motor for loss of braking in the event one goes down. Might as well just power your toe wheel and call it a day?
The problem with this is you kind of need more torque when it comes to all terrain and off-road.
And a bigger wheel you will lose torque with the same gearing as the smaller wheel.
It’s a lot of work an extra parts to break for not that great of results.
The only reason we use one engine to drive multiple wheels on petrol cars is because the engines are huge.
Even electric cars which have plenty of room for differentials use multiple motors.
Something I think that would be really cool is a drive system that disengages when you’re not accelerating for free roll.
Maybe it doesn’t even use the motors for braking.
I thought heavily about this last year but in the end realised it was cheaper and easier to buy a leiftech, but then I wanted to mod it, add vescs etc which i thought the V2 would really benefit from. Now they have the SBX coming out which looks like it has addressed most of the issues with the V2.
You can buy the SR360 plates from Leiftech and DIY your own but they are quite expensive. Aaron from Leif said they will cost 1/3rd of the price of a complete as they are the most expensive part on them to produce
@Halbj613 Yah there are options for longer trips or recharge on the go but basically all either swap out batteries or carry extras you can charge the ones on the board from but really limited by the 1C limit for incoming current while charging so stuck waiting at least an hour between charges no matter where the power comes from in the end (assuming you don’t want to do some sort of battery swap or charge at higher C rating likely reducing cycle count on the cells)
On a full charge with 185Wh battery on a single drive with urethane wheels I can ride for about 12 miles and do it in about an hour but that is a pretty long time on the board for me and usually feet hurting by the end of those really long rides so not sure I’d actually want much more range but I made my batteries easy to remove and put back on for the purpose of having backups I can carry in a bag if I ever need to take a longer trip and so I can swap between charging each pair of batteries to not have to wait for charging.
what about using quick release latches o rc car pins for mounting the battery enclosure for super easy removal when swapping batteries or charging lipo’s
Have used these kinds of clips for RC car stuff before (holding the plastic shell on) but I kind of doubt they are robust enough to hold the batteries on with all the vibration (I guess if you have enough of them clipping it on the weight/forces are distributed but ones I’ve used are very thin gauge too). The idea of a locking pin still isn’t a bad idea I’ve been using backpack straps:
I just used washers and 3dprinted part between the washer and strap to bolt them to my board. Just using washers they would cut into the straps but the plastic printed part distributes the force across the entire strap so they aren’t getting cut into anymore: