VX1 remote potentiometer wire broke.

How’d you get that model?

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Many dirty deeds probably

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Yup @b264 many dirty deeds done dirt cheep

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Although it’s likely you don’t want to shell out for a new remote considering this issue is easily remedied, if you do feel the need to change, Andrews Freesk8 remote should be available in a few weeks… Probably less :thinking:

July 15th is the estimated date for beta testers to get their production units.

I’m loudmouthing about this remote because its legitimately my favorite esk8 purchase I’ve made, it knocked my LR hoodie down to second favorite :stuck_out_tongue:

(Although it does mean I can’t blame my falls on my remote cutting out anymore :sneezing_face:)

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Today I wanted to commute to work and was already too late. On the street I found out the board didn’t work and after a short inspection I had to call a taxi which cost me almost as much as a new VX1 and I was still 20 minutes too late at work…

After work I opened the VX1 and found this

I found the reason why this happened, when braking all wires get moved by the thumb throttle which is very bad.

After opening a brand new VX1 (which I got yesterday) I recognized that the wires are routed like it should be so the thumb throttle can’t touch them

It seems it depends on the worker in the factory how the wires are routed :crazy_face:

Weird, in my case it’s hard braking without white wire.
Today before work I was jumping in dirt park with this VX1 remote and was just lucky that I didn’t eat dirt due to unexpected hard braking.

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hmm. interesting.

good observation on the wire routing. I opened up the other 4 remotes I have. One of them, which i previously had troubles with strange hesitations.

had the white wire break off the pot with just a little stressing. so i fixed it. need to get my leg to heal before I can test and see if it fixed the intermittent “hesitations” issues but preliminary testing it didn’t reproduce.

I ended up ensuring the wires were routed well and hot gluing them there*.

* too impatient to wait for the neutral cure silicone and I just played iwth some IPA on some other hot glue to find it does work pretty well at getting things apart.

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@fessyfoo Thank you for this thread. I went in today to inspect the wires, tuck them in, and put a dab of hot glue on the solder joints. Surprisingly, they looked very fine but I needed to be sure.

I also put a dab of hot glue where the throttle wheel slots into the potentiometer as it had become a bit loose after dropping it a few times. Good as new now!

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FAAK.

diffferent FLIPSHIT VX1. I had checked the wires and glued them in place. but unfortunately not at the pot. and it broke off there.

I’ve had 3 different problems today. 1 is now blamed on flipshit. the other two boards issues may also be… I need to get myself into and comfortable with some other remotes. :frowning:

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when I fisserated my VX1 I re soldered all of my connections with good quality wire, directly across the PCB and secured it on the top of the PCB with E600 after adding a bit of strain relief… I didn’t like the potentiometer/wire connection either so I routed the wires back under the PCB near those 4 points to the POT with plenty of spare wire…

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Yeah. under is probably a better idea.

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what gauge wire did you use @kook.

aside. I think after inspecting this one I didn’t leave enough strain relief with my glue job. so I basically am the maker of my own failure.

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20-22ga whatever size is similar… I just used some good silicone wires from my quadbox stash of stuffs

if’n you have a 3 wire servo connector in your bag of stuffs… 4-6" should be more than plenty to fixerate your remote

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thanks. my bag of scrap wire things is pretty meager.

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Junk electronics are gold mines when you need some common electrical crap.

Especially thin wires :rofl:

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I do like this…


I’m better at fabricating than sketching on a fone…
:crazy_face: :crazy_face:

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ooh i didn’t grok that. I was thinking it’s through hole so if I pull up the pcb I could solder em to the other side.

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what spec is the pot in there?

Could it be replaced with one of possibly higher quality? Or at least replace with one I haven’t fallen on like a slide puck at 20mph

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you might could do that… but i’m lazy… i didn’t even move the PCB… I have no idea what the board looks like from the other side

it’s a standard game controller pot… like 3 for 10bux on the 'Zone…

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