I got my loctite 660 in, did some teardown and documented. I’ll add and edit few more things but want to make sure these videos work. Not sure if anyone cares about the application video but just paint the loctite onto bearing outside and can inside then reasemble.
Obviously you need to remove the circlip BEFORE attempting this
Also
*** WARNING: YOU MIGHT SHATTER YOUR BALL BEARINGS OR DIMPLE THE RACES ***
I personally have never had that issue though but it depends how much you need to hulksmash it. You may need to replace your bearings after this. Try and think about what forces might hit these bearings sideways when you’re carving on the road though at 30kmh.
Here I couldn’t get it lined up with the small outer bearing but it popped into place with the vice without too much force. Also when doing the final press you want to hold the inner race edge of the bearing so the axle going through doesn’t hit the vice.(last few sec)
I think it was a 9/16, it can be deceiving to go higher and could be better initially but the socket can get stuck on the bearing then you’re hammering that.
Pop can works great if your tolerance is as bad as mine. Going to test in a bit. Top and bottom of a pop can is thicker too if its worse like the back of the hangar.
Update: the shims on one side fell out after like 15km other side is good still so ymmv. I gave up trying on one side and loctited 660 the motor to the axle. Either its never coming off or will break tomorrow.
I’m not blaming torqueboards for this since I was running my custom printed adapter and they broke but its annoying dealing wih that clearance really not sure why it’s there. You can fit together tighter fitting stuff, not sure if there could be too much torsion this way. Anways, both sides are loctited on now, curing until tomorrow evening. Yeah cans are bad I also just stopped caring about what I roll over.
Yeah funny krams issue is 1 step in, hope mine doesn’t do that. Today’s ride they came loose again, I suspect the thermal paste got mixed into it but I also only put the loctite on 2 sides of the square to be on the safe side. This time I cleaned it up and added loctite to all 4 sides of the square mount for the motor. If this doesn’t work I guess it’s back to metal shims and maybe some of this loctite.
Edit : Ok I think we have a winner. All 4 corners of the mount loctited with thick layer on top and 1 side of the 660, removed all thermal paste and added about 1.5cm of loctite 660 to the end of the hangar and last 1.5cm of the inside of motor shaft. Ran like 40km and no issues today so looks promising.
Yes definitely, @MacKeeper28 ended up replacing his big bearing but he had to use a puller to yank it off the core I believe once he had it apart.
I’ve loctited the motors on the axles now so I have no idea how hard it is to pull apart for me. Super smooth and quiet this way though and still holding strong.
You can try purging the bearings without taking the whole thing apart if theyre not too far gone, also make sure your spacing is ok and the wheel nut doesn’t overtighten, some of these need speed washers behind the wheel (2 for me) as well as 1 in front so it doesn’t bind.
Yeah just take the shield off and clean it with alcohol and a toothbrush, or orange cleaner. Here is some info could be better tho
And I put these on before the wheel and there is no binding this way. But I did a lot of test spins and tightening to make sure its perfect not loose either.
They’re a bitch to get apart but if you have the right tools and some patience it’s doable.
Things I used:
Vice that opens past 62mm
Socket with diameter of close to 20mm and as square a face as you can find to prevent marring the stator
Hammer
Bearing puller
Piece of ⅛” thick aluminum
The procedure I used to replace the big bearing:
Open the vice jaws to exactly the inner diameter of the rotor (just over 62mm), and set the motor with wires facing downwards on top of the vice jaws.
Place the socket on top of the stator so that it sits inside the inner race of the small bearing. Note the position of the stator in relation to the bearing.
Hammer the socket through the middle of the small bearing until the stator comes out.
Remove the stator from the rotor. This will take a fair amount of force due to the magnets.
With the stator removed, use the bearing puller and piece of aluminum as a brace to pull the big bearing. This could also be done with the vice and hammer if you don’t mind destroying the outer race of the big bearing.
Optionally, cook the new bearing in the oven at 250°F for a while to make it expand. If you’re lucky, it’ll fall into place. I was not lucky.
Adjust the vice so that the jaws are just over 40mm apart, the inner diameter of the big bearing. Place the stator wires down on top of the bearing on the vice.
Hammer the stator until the bearing is fully seated.
Reinsert the stator into the rotor without pinching your fingers. Place the motor on top of the vice, wires facing up.
Hammer the stator into the rotor until the stator and small bearing are at their original positions.
Side effects were slight marring of the casing and creating a lip on the stator so that the motor wouldn’t fully seat on the axle. I fixed this with a razor blade. Potential side effects include dimpling the races of the original bearings, but if you’ve gotten this far, you’ll probably be fine.
I’m likely gonna have to do this again to replace the small bearing on my motor because it’s starting to squeal. I suspect I didn’t regrease it well enough. When that happens, I’ll add pictures of most of the steps here.
Not sure of others experiences but on my motors, there’s absolutely no reason to have the circlip on there. There’s no way I could’ve hammered the stator out while the rotor was in my hand. It took some full force hits while on top of the vice before the stator even budged.
Since my cores are stuck on the hanger this is how I take it apart now
Yea so I should have check the connector lol. It looked fine though but point testing from inside the motor everything works. I reassembled and got hall sensor success. But then it failed again after gluing the connector on again. Took glue off reseated and now its fine again and glued in place again. Im confused. Glad it’s fine I guess?
Edit:
Back to failing this morning, I’m thinking either a wire is damaged or the connector is being weird, but hall sensors do fail a lot apparently.
Cheers,
today i replaced the motor-hanger with the reinforced one i got from the group-buy. Had to sand it down a bit but everything worked out fine. Sadly i’m stuck with one of the motors doing “grinding” noises which i can’t locate and which also i didn’t get with the old hanger - used to have them with the old one, too, but it disappeared after fiddling around a bit. Never understood how and why. Any ideas where the noises might come from? I also get them when pushing the board without using the motors.
This sounds like the issue where tightening the wheels too far will cause the motor core to bind up. Try adding 2 or 3 speed rings between the wheels and the motors. When tightening the axle nut, you should feel it stop suddenly when tight, not gradually get harder to turn. If it doesn’t stop suddenly, add more speed rings behind the wheel until it does.
