What do you guys think of 2 of these in parallel? According to the calculator it says I should get about 16 miles out of it. I would be happy with that and it looks like it has the power I need for the torque I want.
16 miles with PU wheels. Anything else and it’ll go down.
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How much do you think?
Also, what kind of charger would I even need for that 10s battery? I has two charge leads. Would I need a 2 port 1~6s charger?
Why not go for a decent Li-Ion pack?
The Molicel P42A’S pack a punch and if that’s not enough you can even go Samsung 30T.
A 12s5p P42A pack would do about 6.5kW of continues power.
The same with 30T cells would be around 7.5kW.
I doubt you’d be able to pull more than that continues 
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I was actually seriously considering a P42A 12s4p pack. I was quoted $557 for one.
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4p for an offroadboard might be enough. 5p would be better xd Really depends on your hills, riding style and also weight.
Liion will be more expensive in the beginning but these can do a lot more cycles than lipo (which will need replacing a lot sooner than liion). Also they`re lighter for their given capacity and thus they’ll get you more range.
And ofc the obvious one: charging a liion pack with bms is a lot less complicated than lipos with a dedicated balance charger.
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You basically need a bms if going bigger than 6S and don’t plan to do the detachable batteries thing to charge the individual packs. I had a fine time with them after I stopped over discharging also getting a hard plastic shell or as I did printing them helps a lot. The soft packs have tabs that are sometimes dodgely soldered together and any jitters between the cells can break the tabs… If you take care of lipos they can last a very long time but for range and convenience you’d eventually want bigger pack and bms to manage cell voltage.
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The more research I do, the more I’m leaning towards liion. And to be honest lipo batteries make me nervous 
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Any big ass battery needs to be treated with some care and respect they can all pack a lot of punch, but hear you can be good to leave it to experts when it comes to making bigger batteries.
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This, because à battery is a big fire bomb so also prepare extra care like a metal isolated unit for storage. Better burn a box than a house 
Also if you’re ready to pay some extra, your can also look into SMC packs. Low internal resistance, good assembly. Quality lipo for the money, but expensive a bit. Maxamps also has very positive feedback but even more expensive!
Depends on your board uses.
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that’s pretty fucking expensive, no?
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This is my 12s 3p Lipo battery, or 12s 15000mAh. It’s on my Mtb with dual 6374 190kv motors. I run 120 battery amps and 60 motor amps and get about 14 miles of range on MBS T1 tires with 40 psi. The packs are Turnigy 5000 mAh 20C - 40C in a 3s 3p configuration with a smart BMS for balancing and charging at 15 amps. The pack is theoretically capable of 300 - 600 amps peak based on the C rating, but those are always big overestimates. The pack cost about $350 to put together, including a $40 bms and all the connectors. I was also able to get the batteries on sale to help with the cost. I also cleaned up all that wiring before putting it in the board.
A pack like this gives pretty good bang for your buck, but it’s a pain to put it together and keep an eye on. The only reason I went this route was that I had ample space and easy access to the battery in my top mount box. Also, I used to need this board for long-distance commuting, but I will probably break up the pack into individual p groups and turn my board into more of a jump/ freestyle board now.
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How much should I be paying for one?
Wow, that looks like a pain in the ass. That is a good looking board though. How often do you have to pull it out of your enclosure? How long has it lasted you? And what kinda BMS did you need?
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It’s a pretty normal price when it’s built by a pro builder. After all you want a safe battery and the esk8 battery building standards are much higher and more time consuming compared to let’s say Ebike battery’s.
It’s around 320$ in materials and 230$ for the service. That’s average pricing I’d say.
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I exclusively use LIPOs. This is my current setup on a trampa/kaly hybrid with a bms. I also used them before on a split enclosure flexy deck. This current setup is 3s x 4 8ah each and I can take them on a plane (88wh each battery). I know it looks complicated but trust me, it is 1/10th the work of building a li-ion pack. the whole thing took me an hour while I was watching tennis at the same time. lol
Here is what I have learned. Keep the battery between 3.6v and 4.15v per cell and you won’t have any problems and they will last you a long time. 3.6-4.15 will get you ~80% of the battery capacity.
Lipos are punchy throughout the ride because the voltage stays above 3.6v. Li-ions suck once you get to 30-40%.
WH for WH, lipos give me 20% more range than li-ions. I never figured out why but I think it is because of the discharge curve. For li-ions you are going down to 2.9/3v while lipos stay above 3.6v, so for the second half of the battery, you are having to pull 10-20% more amps from a li-ion to get the same wattage as lipos.
There is some great info on the old forum by the user “evoheyax” and “namasaki”. Look at some of his posts and he confirmed what I knew intuitively but never understood it.
The only slight disadvantage lipos have is that they are not as energy dense but once you factor in the 20% extra range, even that is narrowed down.
regarding the c rating, just divide it by a third to be on the safe side. chinahobbyline is a good budget option and get descent reviews and i am happy with mine. look on the rc forums
Here is the best part though. If you look after them, they won’t puff and you can sell them on second hand. I have bought and sold 3 sets of lipos (after 30-50 charge cycles) and got 50-60% of the money back. They are much much cheaper in the long run IMO
Ask me anything else you want to know.
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Everything he just said I feel the same. 3.6-4.15 is a great voltage spread. Beats ion in having more consistent power and speed. Just don’t bang the cells. A lot easier to put together than an ion pack and a lot less possible faults and cheap.
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You mean by keeping them in the 3.6 - 4.15 range ?
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Yes. You could go down to 3.55 ONLY if you are discharging through the BMS so it can cut off if one cell goes below that but I bypass discharge so keep them at 3.6.
3.65v soft cutoff and 3.6 hard cutoff
edit: just as a guideline, get lipos where a third of their c rating will be more than the battery max on your vesc, for obvious reasons.
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