I was just looking at that same one a couple minutes ago 
Was wondering about the 140c though, would that be too much?
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That is a stupendously preposterous rating. That 770A rating is higher than the fusing (melting) current threshold for 6AWG wire. Think about that…for a pack using 12AWG wire they actually claim a rating that will melt 6AWG wire in a few seconds. 
Alternative phrasing: That’s a useless rating, ignore it.
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Agreed, plus if you’re going past 100A or so continuous (which the board is generally incapable of) the limiting factor isn’t the battery but rather the connectors themselves. You’d melt them before you’ll overdraw the battery.
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nah, that’s not why i use that as an example, but the 4s2p config. get 2 pack, 8s2p should be pretty alright for a short trip board, need longer range? get another pack to make 12s2p. if HK’s website listed weight is to be trusted, then 3 packs is about 1.6kg only, actually pretty light
the 140c thing? half that, and slap an 80% on top of it sounds about right
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though I would like something that’s going to get me from 0-60 in 5 sec without melting everything.
That would still easily melt the 12AWG wire they use in a few seconds. 
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I feel like there’s s a few use cases for that where it makes sense, like spot welding. Need a crap ton of amps, but only for a few milliseconds so it’s not enough time to heat up significantly.
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Agreed. Or for charging ultracaps (used for welding) quickly.
It needs 4AWG wiring or better IMO though
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oh boy, i forgot about those as well…
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But in all seriousness the 16Ah Tunigys are probably fine for a board. The 12Ah ones are pretty popular due to the Patriot build, and they seem to hold up fine on similar setups. Plus there’s still quite a bit of headroom even if you’re conservative of whatever rating they give for the battery (24C burst is 384A, and even if the actual battery is a third of that, that’s still over 120A which is pretty high for dual 6374s) . They’re not the best battery out there, but they’re pretty affordable and importantly from a reputable manufacturer.
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Ok so with this amount of amps possible what would be a good recommendation for a VESC/ESC?
there is still something i want to understand about Turnigy lipo, what’s the difference between these:
Graphene Professional vs Graphene Panther vs Nano-Tech Plus…etc. like holy crap there are at least five different types, and i only understand High Capacity means higher than normal capacity packs, but other than that, i have no idea what difference are there for the other few types
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I would love to know the differences too. I’m gonna have to take a lipo course or something 
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I got bored and did some reading around. It’s mostly marketing material, but there seems to be a few differences:
Heavy Duty - Regular LiPo but rated higher for current
High Capacity - Regular LiPo but optimized for capacity rather than current
Nano-Tech - Uses some sort of “nano” coating or additive on the substrate to reduce resistance and extend life
Nano-Tech Plus - Higher current ratings than regular Nano-Tech (70-140C vs. 45-90C)
Graphene - Graphene additive. Supposedly better
Graphene Panther - Newer generation of graphene
Graphene Professional - Aimed at professional users with big drones, typically lower C ratings but higher capacities, durability, and apparently charge rate (advertises as high as 15C charge rate on some batteries)
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I’ve been looking at the graphenes but they are pretty expensive and to get the power and the range I want I would have to spend more than $400 plus a balance charger. Might as well get a 12s 4p VTC5a pack made.
You’ll probably only do maybe 60 amps from the battery and that’s a short peak.
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Only costs like $50 for a nice BMS and a charger is like $35
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I had one come flying out of the crappy box on my first build and it only lasted a little while after that.
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That’s one of the sucky things about lipos, they don’t like to be dropped.
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