Okay, If I understand you correctly it works fine when using the foot pedal?
In that case, it sounds like your auto pulse setting may be too short of a delay. For example, you could set it to 1 second, and it won’t auto weld unless its been contacting for 1 second straight. The more you get the hang of it the shorter you can go. I think in the newer kits they made it programmed in so you cant go shorter than .2s of contact before firing, but in older versions of the software on the welder there might not be the minimum limit. The reason why I am saying all this is because it sounds like yours might be at 0 seconds. That would just instantly weld on contact.
On the auto setting, does the weld power remain on until you remove the tip(as if it were just wires on the battery), or does it do a normal spotweld that just instantly triggers when you touch metal? Thats the big question.
I can make a video tomorrow for youtube if you like explaining this if I am not clear over text replies.
Have you ever had your welder stick on before? My kweld has twice, tho I was improperly using it so I’ll take a lot of the blame. Either way, that fuse is what prevents it from melting it’s way straight into the cell, it’s slow blow, I watched the fuse burn as a panicked what to do since the probes wouldn’t pull away either. Without that I’m not sure what would have happened, but I’m assuming it will be a bad time with no fuse.
I would definitely recommend against skipping the fuse. That’s a risk probably not worth taking.
Whats your battery on the kweld? Currently I am presuming that the 850CCA will make the tips so hot they cant stick. Welding at 80ms leaves a hotspot thats almost like a white flash in the center. I could not imagine the tips not melting if they even got stuck power on for longer than 1 second.
If they do manage to stick, twisting and pulling at the same time is probably the best bet. Its what I do when welding at 80ms double layers especially since the tips stick every time. Can see it once in the video.
Thanks for your reply, actually it doesn’t work even on Manual with the foot switch. As I understand it, on Manual mode de shouldn’t have any power in the probes until I press the switch but it does and as soon as I touch the nickel with both probes it welds.
On auto, if I set it to 2 seconds, it doesn’t wait for the 2 seconds and welds as soon as I touch the nickel.
Check if you have your welder wired up backwards. I swapped the electronics in my welding setup to a new v4 Maelectrics, only to find out that it was dead on arrival. When I swapped back to my trusty v3, I was having this exact same issue that you are describing. After panicking for a solid ten minutes, I realized that I had the welder wired up backwards. Apparently the mosfets are just an open circuit when run in reverse. Flipping the welder back around the right way fixed the problem!
If this is not the problem, then what Ryan said may be correct and you may have a blown mosfet.
bro I am glad you had the same fuck up, what were the odds ?
Anyways, I am re-wiring the bitch now thanks a lot guys, I can send an email to the malectrics guy telling him to ignore the previous ones asking for help and/or a discount for a new one
I found the info on the malectrics faq. Even going over their recommended pulse time, I can’t get a good weld, Maybe it’s my cheap battery? It’s a 420CCA
Those are slow pop fuses that Kweld and malectric use I think, so they take a while to burn through in a short circuit. But if the 300A fuse only gets hot, whats the problem here? I mean its designed to get hot, as long as you don’t get a continuous average of over 300A while welding (which I seriously doubt) I wouldn’t worry about it.
The tips were stuck because of the current. I watched the nickel turn bright red and burn at the same time the fuse on the kweld did so. Fist time it did that it released before the fuse popped, second time did pop the fuse.
I actually bought a second welder, but it showed up dead lol. Malectrics is being cool about it and sending out a replacement part, so that’s good of them.
I’m sure someone has already thought of this, I wont claim to have invented a new idea or anything lol. But it did come to me out of the blue in a drunken battery building frenzy, and I figured I would share it in case anyone else finds this useful
I’ll probably end up selling this pack. I made it for the Evo SS/Universal 12s MK2 enclosure, unless y’all think it’s not good enough to sell. I’ll let you all he the judges.
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