The battery builders club

fuses are for weaklings.

there might have been more than one moment.

still fits. @Batteryh_Mooch can you judge my soldered and not crimped lug connectors with tons of solder wicked, quite the opposite to the other wiring. mmhmmm.

Dude, the attitude towards someone trying to help you when you clearly could use the help, is not landing well here.

I’m not sure why you’d expect anyone to keep answering your questions if you’re going to treat them with a lack of respect & basic manners. I’ve followed exactly what Mooch tried to explain here; perhaps the issue is on the listening side.

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I had excuses, I tried to list them out as a way of identifying my problems, I was told I needed to do a better job. I agreed and that was the point of my starting the conversation. I was hoping everyone could improve but I am just causing myself problems so yeah.

your point about me running my mouth disrespecting my teach is responding to a comment I made about how discussion at length correcting my mistake I came here myself to warn other not to do (and I did not wish to correct or have anyone attempt in the first place) is unproductive for me to do, especially relative to the time it would have taken to avoid the mistake myself, not that that is important. so we are clear

I’m gonna blame my brain it wasn’t me.

Yep. That’s what the fuse is there for :wink:

(I know there are pros and cons to running fused discharge, which is why it’s optional on the KitPCB’s. He was talking about how to implement his fuse correctly, so I corrected his wire placement.)

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Make up your mind.
Decorum prevents me from posting my other thoughts.

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Has anyone run their Malectrics welder without the 300A fuse?

I’m gearing up for a massive production run, and I’ll be spot welding a LOT, very constantly. Part of my preparation is swapping to 6AWG welding cables, and I am debating skipping the fuse. Seems to me that it’s just another bottleneck in the system that’s creating a lot of heat.

Thoughts?

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I am sorry to @Battery_Mooch the rude attitude I showed you was not appropriate.

The bad job I did soldering and trying to share it as a warning to not ever try that, I thought due to its inherent difficulty was no reason to not accept your honest thoughts on my first attempt. Especially because that resulted in a dangerous failure. I was ticked off that I shared it as a failure and felt that you were having to tell me that I did bad and that I needed to be told such. That did end up being true but not about the soldering so much as my response to input.

good day you all go fuck some shit up and tell me about it or I’ll do it for you.

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do you think the fuse would pop to protect a battery if the welder decided to blow up? would the fuse more protect the welder from blowing itself up if you cranked over it’s limits?

Change it out to a 500 or 600A fuse, could fix the heating problems and would still work in a short circuit situations, although not as fast.

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6awg? how long are your cables?

For me its not the cables that get hot, its the tips, and I’m using 8 awg, but my cables are only about 18" long and I’m using a kWeld.

Cup of ice water helps.

I just use some some nice form fitting winter gloves i stole from my girl, can weld all day with those.

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No.

I have short circuited my truck battery several times through that fuse, and it didnt care. It does get hot as fuck during welding though

My ProbeGrips insulate the tips well enough that it’s the wires laying against my hands that really gets cooking. Either way though, more copper means more thermal mass.

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I run a sharp surgical blade around the circumference and then up the length of the insulation to be removed. Time consuming and if you press too hard you can cut through strands, but once you get the hang of it, its not too bad.

I would say its highly likely that your blowtorch method of stripping is what’s giving you a hard time with the tinning/soldering

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Strip wires with a blowtorch?

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I searched for some heat resistant gloves for the last year’s gift exchange and found these, affordable quality.

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Hey man, im a long time malectrics user and love it. Im now at around 16k+ welds and counting and none have been with the fuse. I spot weld until the 6awg wires get too hot to hold… even after being wrapped in insulation.(I do not recommend this, however my use case was spot welding 2 layers of .2mm strip onto 360 cells for that heat level. The battery was a deep cycle 850CCA marine battery so it took it like a beast.)

My logic is that in any dead short scenario where the malectrics gate remains open due to unknown failure, the fuse won’t kick in fast enough to save my current cell. If the fuse does kick in fast enough, it will likely melt or fail with my use case as stated above meaning I will go through tons of fuses. If the gate were ever stuck open, I know I can always pull away at least one of the tips. I also store the tips apart from each other when not in use in holders on each side of the battery.

Again, 16K+ welds, NO FUSE. No issues so far even going up to 80ms on the 850CCA battery going through double layer .2mm nickel. I love that spot welder and its the best thing I have ever bought to make boards. Highly recommend using autopulse feature!

Last seconds of a welding cycle where I could no longer hold my grips. Smoke :eyes:

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That’s what I’m using. I keep a battery tender on it. It really is a beast.

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Have ever had an issue where the welder would not do it’s job, meaning as soon as I touch the nickel with both probes its welds. Bit like If I hooked up the cables to the battery direct.
Tother than that it seems to count welds and when I use the foot switch the progress bar appear like should.