The battery builders club

Yes to both.
There could be a common bolt pattern if all BMS and switch manufacturers decided to agree on one. But a standard like that will inevitably get in the way of someone’s design being as small or effective as they want so they won’t use the standard pattern.

Adapters can always be handled with printed parts. :slightly_smiling_face:

2 Likes

I urge you to redo those connections. IMO that is not a safe setup.

Unsolder the wires, soak up the excess solder with solder-wick (or something equivalent), clean the burnt flux off with alcohol, get new wires (or clip the ends of what you have), twist the strands of each wire together and then carefully tin each wire end with solder (use lots of flux if needed), place a bit of solder on each solder pad, and then quickly and carefully solder each wire to its correct pad.

5 Likes

bro they already started to remove themself it’s fine. it was never going to work. They were all off before you even saw that picture I would also add.

1 Like

nope can’t. I fucked up even trying to use the telfon this way. No thinking moment there.

that stuff does not come off with alcohol idek what is needed. Anyone here use flux remover?

1 Like

Sorry I didn’t see this earlier I just hooked up the two wires to a spare cell but yes that will also work. It works as expected now. I’m impressed that I can open up the app in my bedroom and check my battery while it’s in my garage.

you have any reasoning for this comment besides the poor soldering of the teflon wires?
which is only my fault for trying, there was no way I could have soldered them well. I was just slightly inexperienced with them. I would have used a 16 pin JST connector if I had one, well I guess that is where I really fucked up then.

I tried to post that to warn others about using teflon wires in any situation besides crimping or butt joints, so to have you reply saying to not use that wiring job and telling me how to solder it better seems to be missing the point what I wanted out of the post. hope you got that, sorry you typed all that out.

The proper way to do this because I have not explicitly said is to butt joint the teflon wires to silicone ribbon then solder that to the BMS. Silly me did not do that for… no reason :upside_down_face: ooops learned and try to teach you all.

Can anyone tell me the next mistake I will make paradoxically making me prevent it and causing a different mistake to be my next? was thinking about this the mistake?

I’ve only ever needed to use isopropyl rubbing alcohol. 91 or 99%, soaked in a cotton swab, or if that’s not aggressive enough, a toothbrush.

Most commercial “flux cleaners” you’ll find online are just isopropanol in a can with some CO2 as a propellant.

2 Likes

I was trying 91 and not having luck… I will try 99 but I think the dry spots need scraped off.

I would have noticed this failed soldering if not for the black plastic I put down over it the moment I finished it. Prob could have prevented this if I had left it off and used kapton instead, it had cracked so I almost took it off.

There needs to be another reason beside a poor soldering job?
There are connections too close to each other and loose strands…this is bad.

Of course you could have soldered them well. The insulation material has no effect on the wires being soldered. Only the condition of the wires, the solder you use, and your technique affects that.

If that wire is too badly oxidized, your flux isn’t active enough or you don’t have enough, you burn the flux too quickly, or some other issue affects the soldering then the job will not turn out well. The Teflon is innocent. :slightly_smiling_face:

Not quite sure why you’re saying things the way you are. If you had a lesson to teach us you did so very badly IMO.

Doing a poor soldering job and displaying that is not teaching anyone anything. If you redid it well and showed us the differences between the two jobs, and explained why the differences are important, then many could learn from it.

At first read of this all I got was attitude but perhaps I’m wrong? I hope so…

2 Likes

IPA works just fine…be patient. You burnt the heck out of that flux so it takes longer to come off. I’ve used 70% and 99%, both work.

2 Likes

So you didn’t inspect your solder joints as you did them and didn’t take a last look to make sure you didn’t have any shorted wires before you covered them? Was that part of the lesson? :grin:

2 Likes

nope not thinking about you at all on that one, just a quirk of seeking advice and avoiding mistakes.

I think the main thing I did badly was 1, the soldering and 2, not putting my failure into a post in a way that we could all learn from it best.

guess you aren’t thinking about every detail of the sequence of events, the wires all looked ok but once I put the plastic down and bent them around positioning the BMS (this was a mock-up) then the loose strands shifted and I saw/smelled the wires being shorted. I did attempt to tin the teflon wires properly but my shitty blowtorch and tweezer stripping method made that not work as you see. if I was going for more than a mock up I sure hope I would have never tried this or done a perfect job there.

You are correct. I do see myself blaming them completely whereas you could properly solder them in this way and get away with it. that is why I was trying it, otherwise it would have been like a half hour (that I instead spent having this mostly unimportant conversation) making 13 extra joints, and preventing the short that would have been nice, and not wasting all the time I spent stripping said teflon wires. hmm lot of actions to reconsider here.

image

We can all enjoy this kitty cat scan of the battery floor.

3 Likes

Wow…been trying to help here.
Seems that you could have spent considerably less time in this mostly unimportant conversation if you actually spent considerably less time actively participating in this mostly unimportant conversation. Your choice, your time.

8 Likes

Are you leaving the cell inside of your board forever?

1 Like

Oh of course not. You just put the 1 cell for 2 seconds to activate it then set the standby timer to 0 so it will keep Bluetooth on the whole time which is not much power draw compared to standby

1 Like

Just so you’re aware, you’re actually bypassing the fuse right now. Your red wire should be connected here*:

*assuming that you actually want to be running fused discharge. I am aware that there are pros and cons to doing so, and some might wish to run without a fuse.

9 Likes

Huh how about that. What’s next don’t try soldering teflon wire to a BMS? ?

Your part of the conversation was important and valued. My point is that I skipped soldering silicone extensions for a mock up then talked about how I should have done it for longer than it could have taken me, after it was impossible to do so. So yeah I pointed it out and understood.

I am spending it trying to teach, your teaching me that your aren’t the best teacher imo.
:man_judge:t2:
The unimportant comment only has to do with the fact that I should have not tried to solder that, so talking about all the ways it went bad isn’t really important, it is not going to try in the first place. Sorry I might have offended you unintentionally.

So can someone show us in a short video clip or pictures how you strip and tin teflon wire? As mentioned I used a blowtorch which might have oxidized and or the bad stripping coated some strands in melted teflon.

seems like if he put it there he would be running fuzed discharge

2 Likes