The battery builders club

40A fuse on 35A battery configured VESC.

I would pull the balance leads from the negative ends of the cells, except for the B10 / B+ one

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They donā€™t ā€œbelongā€ there, electrically itā€™s the same

The difference is when you have a balance wire wrapped around the end of a cell and itā€™s under heavy vibration for extended periods of time, if itā€™s at the same voltage as the cell casing below it, there is a smaller risk of shorts and fires. On 18650 li-ion cells, the cell casing is the negative lead.

On A123 cells for example, youā€™d want them on positive since the cell casing is positive.

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Anyone have any experience with this 10AWG?
https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01ABOPO2S/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=10+awg+sili&qid=1596779282&sr=8-6
I would order from common sense but they r out of the 3 ft combo packs and their 10 ft packs r way expensive

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I have bought silicone wire from BNTECHGO multiple times and it has always been good. Cant really see a difference between that and Turnigy.

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This is the only kind Iā€™ve bought, great stuff. Super thick and super high strand count

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SOLD

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Lol Iā€™ve thought about trying the hobbyking stuff but this has just always worked since I started building in 2017, so I never switched

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I bet both come from the same part of china.

Also the two kinds I have got lol

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Guranteed lol

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wonder why common sense is so expensiveā€¦
Iā€™ve been going there but now feel like Iā€™ve been getting raped

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you gotta pay premium so you can help them stock their impressive selection of

$12 mugs

I would say hobbyking is great but sometimes they sit on your order for over a month just because they ran out of xt60s

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HAHAH, that is a clever mug tho, Iā€™m tempted. Prolly premium $25 shipping to protect the precious goods tho

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who hereā€™s got SPIM08HP experience?? @Fosterqc ? Wondering what the easiest but effective way to do my terminal connections would be. Watched this video and the dude just sorta sandwiches the terminals between copper bars and screws em tight with a nut and a bolt. Could I do that with aluminum or is it not acceptable?

These seem to be about the right size and are cheap enough. Iā€™m trying to think how i would do series connections if I went this route. IDK, Iā€™m super noob at these SPIM cells and donā€™t know what Iā€™m doing =/

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depends on the required layout. Or if you opt for the foil crimps you are semi-constrained unless you do wire between you foil crimps which is annoying and has failed on me.

I think I found a way to make a 12S2P that fits in the cheap harbor freight case nicely with all the series and parallel connections being done with foil crimps.


This is an example of a 3S2P built using the layout.

Basically it involves paralleling the first two overlapping cells then making a series connection on one side where it hangs over the cell on the right. Then that cell is paralleld to the one on top of it and you keep going.

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what are foil crimpsā€¦? :innocent:

howcome your cells are all staggered like that? none of these are connected right? Will aluminum bars conduct properly for terminal connections?

Iā€™m doing a 3s3p

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foil crimps (go read @arazamendableā€™s posts) are the main constraint causing me to overlap the cells like that. Here let me draw on the parallel and series connections, make a visual maybe.

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I canā€™t tell what is happening or see the terminal connections at all in this photo

This is kind of more what i was thinking.

Looks like heā€™s using aluminum or something no? iā€™ts def not copper

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ALLLL OF HIS POSTS. AND MINIE TOOO

What it looks like is a shorting hazardā€¦

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