The battery builders club

:joy: :sweat_smile: :+1:

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Nah sorry havenā€™t ordered any yet

My plan was to use 12mm x 0.2mm nickel for mine but itā€™s lost in ali-express shipping land, ordered it 5/11 lol

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I would go with the 35e or 30q

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LMFAO the struggle is REAL

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NGL I have received 5 other ali express packages since then, all ordered significantly after that one lmao

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Letā€™s seeā€¦ Dinner table that doubles as a work station lol

And then some progessā€¦ So I guess about 75% complete while I wait.for the replacement cell and bmsā€¦ But main chunk done otherwiseā€¦

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bump

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Itā€™s definitely getting there, they means your BMS canā€™t balance so the problem will get worse. Manually balance it and go from there and you might be lucky but I would replace the BMS

Ah gotcha. Thatā€™s what Ill do then. Ugh I wish all BMSā€™s would just agree on a jst connector size. I dont feel like redoing it.

Thanks!

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donā€™t huck it just yet.
manually balance through the balance connector and see if the BMS can keep up with it. If the magic smoke is still inside, and it charges, itā€™s probably still working.

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Interesting read about various guage wires

https://dronelab.se/siliconewire.html

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Hi guys! Iā€™m assembling my first board soon (and consequently my first battery pack soon), and I was hoping I could get some feedback. Iā€™m making a single stack 10S4P battery pack from Samsung 30Qs. Each battery group will be laid next to each other. How does this look? I would love some criticisms/corrections.

Is the wiring correct for a (discharge) bypassed BMS?

Are 4 wires between each serial pack overkill? / Is the serial connection between packs 5 and 6 overkill? (would one or two wires be sufficient?)

Should I have any fuses between the battery pack and connection to the FSESCs? I heard this is a no no, since if the fuse blows, you have no breaks. Plus the FSESC will shut off on its own when there is too much voltage/current.

Do the balance leads belong on the negative side?

It seems like this BMS comes with 11 leads (correct me if Iā€™m wrong). Does the ā€œb-ā€ lead go to the negative end of the first battery group in the pack? There also seems to be a ā€œb+ā€ connection. Where does this go?

I came up with my diagram based on these:

b264ā€™s diagram

The BMS I used

The fuse(s) I used

The charge port I used

I will be charging 42V @2.5A, if that helps/matters to know.

I plan on adding a light circuit in the future. A voltage step down is needed, correct? (Link: https://www.amazon.com/Pololu-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-D24V6F5/dp/B016VG8XI2)

If youā€™ve come this far, thanks for reading!

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Looks decent, I would say 4 wires for 10s4p on 30Qs is way overkill, probably 2x 12AWG is plenty

The rest of it checks out. Donā€™t need to fuse your Vescs at all, the charge port fuse is good tho

That is how you wire for bypassed discharge too, so good on that.

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Awesome! Thanks for all your input, youā€™ve been so incredibly helpful!

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I rarely see fused vesc in pictures or diagrams.
But my VESC is fused. it blew a fet horribly. and is currently directly shorting itā€™s powerleads and blows the fuse.

I get curious how much more smoke would come out if that fuse was not there. or if it would lead to fire.

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Hm yeah yours was the worst fet explosion Iā€™ve seen haha crazy that it shorted the power leads. Never seen that before

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Interestingā€¦ Iā€™ll consider placing fuses for each FSESC then, thanks!

Just keep in mind if you manage to spike above the fuse amount you could lose your braking entirely. I donā€™t think itā€™s wise personally, and I think fessy got unlucky

@fessyfoo what rating was your fuse

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I might be wrong about this, but if the fuse were to pop that would be the equivalent to unplugging the ESC during operation. And iirc that guarantees a pop.

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Thatā€™s why I donā€™t think itā€™s a good idea, especially if itā€™s on CAN, that guarantees both of them dying if itā€™s 4.20 hw as far as I know

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