The battery builders club

I gotta be honest… and I’ll only say it once… and then deny it forever…

but the worst mBored battery I’ve looked at was better than that mess…

she ded

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1_awHzQpvF_nLTvMhN0XD4KA

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hi mike… remember… we still have a pending court date… :kiss:

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giphy (44)tenor tenor (1) uAqzwSa

There, that’s better.

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Not true. Because…

As for the pack the infamous mboards built it

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are you fuckking kidding me…

0DD077D9-125E-4038-80B2-63D14D492D71

I’m now archiving all your pix…

you’re doing skatens werk!

:call_me_hand:t4: :doughnut: :call_me_hand:t4:

:rooster: :rooster: :taco:

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There’s more where those came from. both JuliaMyFetish FatBastard

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Why are we even scared if our packs are safe enough when packs like this obviously work? :thinking:

Here are some tests we did on nickel some time ago: The battery builders club - my guess is that 2x 0.15x7mm nickel would be really hot on 60 amps

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No idea why the braided copper was on the outside only.
The middle of the pack was just nickel strip for series. I pulled the copper braid off by hand.

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we prolly should move the rest of this train-werck straight to jail to save the mods moving us there…

a musical interlude…

vote top choice…

don’t search the second link… fuck you… you were warned…

too bad all them gUUd cells had to waste their lives for this indignity…

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breaking these cells down further is going to be harder than I was thinking. Any tips to separate the nickel from the positive sides?

Can I use ipa or something as a solvent to separate the p groups without ripping their wraps off? Wonder what it’s glued with.

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be careful brother…

EDIT:

work slowly… seperate the mains first… then S series… then the P groups on the easy shit you can see… it gets funky when you spread the pack for that last S… make that your last cut

EDIT 2:

the first one I tore down I spent an entire liter of voka just looking at it…
I dind’t 'esplode… no sparks… no fire… k00k still be live and battery saved… go slow and think… It can go south quickly… but I have faith… you got this…

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I wouldn’t worry about the cell wraps, 18/19/20mm PVC heat shrink is super cheap and easy to get.

As for the nickel, I usually grab it with pliers or dikes and “roll” or peel it off, then come back with flush cutters to take care of the weld nuggets.

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I need to buy flush cutters!! Moar tools.
Speaking of which. I need to replace my digital calipers. The display has gone all Wonky open to tool suggestions.

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how much you wanna spend and to what precision… for most sk8 stuff you can buy harbor-fright crap… but you want precision too .05mm then its bux

but easy answer long… go to amazon… look at $40 calipers look at their ratings and have jeff bezos drive them to your house…

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I think I bought $20 calipers the first time. I use em like mad so ok spending more. But I break shit so not a 10x more.

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Plus… it takes a LOT of practice feel and precision to dial in the feel for a 1/10th of a millimeter…

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https://www.amazon.com/Illumifun-Measuring-Electronic-Conversion-Featured/dp/B07DLP5YC9/

$20 wtf are you rich?

my friend didn’t use his much and now they read 6" as like 3" lol they’re fucked

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@fessyfoo… don’t click this link…

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-ABSOLUTE-552-160-10-Resolution-Specifications/dp/B003U9VZZM/ref=sr_1_11?aaxitk=jwnyoIfaYryquvczjb1Mgg&dchild=1&hsa_cr_id=4518440540401&lp_asins=B00IG46NL2%2CB00I3UA89C%2CB000X3CX90&lp_mat_key=digital+vernier+caliper&lp_query=digital+vernier+caliper&lp_slot=auto-sparkle-hsa-tetris&pf_rd_p=0695bfd4-f098-403d-ad0f-7db64c30b506&qid=1594710698&s=hi&sr=1-11&store_ref=SB_A002801311B0FVOVS1KG4

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Plastic

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