They donât fit in the monster box, I should have checked. Fail. We just shot the shit.
12s10p is the plan
What do you guys think of the folding over method? For that long series connection
As long as itâs not likely to flex then its ok, but I wouldnât do nickel connections in that orientation for a flex battery. What size is your nickel? 5 nickel strips per series for 100a battery is a little bit on the low side of things but will probably be fine.
Would you recommend more nickel directly over the nickel? This is not going to be a flex pack at all going into and evo enclosure the deck is stiff as heck!
No, if you double layer that nickel it wonât fold wellâŚ
But you could probably do something like this
Are you planning on using the whole 100a? If not I wouldnât bother.
Folds are fine but those folds are sharp! I would fold them with something in between to create more radius. the rounder the fold the less likely youâll create stress cracks at the edge and failure from vibration.
Just a few reasons:
- Bikes have pneumatic wheels, versus urethane which is what most esk8 uses. Pneumatic wheels absorb vibration better.
- Bikes have larger wheels than esk8s. Larger wheels roll over small bumps more easily, with less vibration.
- Esk8 is much closer to the ground, with less frame, wheel and enclosure between the road and the battery. Less places for vibrational energy to be absorbed, damped or dissipated.
- Esk8 batteries tend to be long and flat, so any flexion is more likely to stress the intercell connections. Ebike packs tend to be monolithic blocks.
- Many bikes have suspensions. These mechanical marvels are specifically designed to reduce the amount of vibration transferred to the rider! Since the electronics usually tend to be located near where the rider is, they benefit as well.
So you think maybe a few layers of fish paper in between will do? What do you think current wise? Is 5 strips enough for the series connection?
Actually, instead of fish paper you could fold in something conductive, a strip of copper braid sandwiched in the fold would significantly reduce the load on the nickel alone. Because its sandwiched you probably donât even need to solder it, tack it on in spots with the spot weld on the edges and you have a solid inbetween connection. But even without, 5 strips at 120A is probably fine. Continuously non-stop it might get hot, but for short periods of time it should be just fine.
I just missed the words âin generalâ to not making it a claim which isnât correct in every case.
In the same sense I could say âairplanes are faster than carsâ even though there are some cars that are faster than some airplanes.
It doesnât make that any less correct.
The answer OP was looking for was present.
That way, length wise. So you have a continuous length across, without the chance of creating hot spots of contact. The copper will have enough contraction to allow you to make the fold without putting external pressure on the nickel.
Also watch the edges of the copper, just to make sure it doesnât fray too much and poke somewhere its not suppose to.
Yeah, thatâs actually such a solid connection itâs almost excessive. Going to make one heck of a pack though.
Woooot! Kk gonna weld it real quick
