My kweld can weld .25 and .30 but anything thicker than .20 builds more heat than Iām comfortable with at the weld. Plus, have to go very slowly to let everything cool off. .30 itās kind of crazy how hot it gets. Iām on 1 x 3s 6000mah red graphene. Stronger power source might do a bit better.
Yea Iāve only tested .15 so far, just got some .2 delivered.
.15 was at minimal settings, but yea Iām assuming .3 will push the machine.
Iāve got two 3s Turnigy 60-120C 5000mah in parallel
Iām planning a 12s4p and 12s3p 30Q pack for my eMTB, I what to have the 3p one removable so I can transfer it to my other build on occasionā¦should be just possible if I put the BMS and wires on the top right? Iāll have a splitter on the charge port and discharge port through the enclosure so I can charge both then connect the second to the ESCs
I think maybe I can slot the BMS at the end, itās pretty thinā¦12mm?
Why not BMS above? These cases are usually much taller than needed for cells even with foam securing on all sides.
True true, think I can fit 2 BMSs and all the wiring on the top? Itās another 20mm to the top but I need to account for the copper bus bars and nickel on either side of the cell
You shouldnāt need bus bars if your cells are that orientation. Youāll have a series connection between each cell with the parallel connections.
Donāt mind me, just archiving @davdBannerās Bestech HCX-D596 BMS wiring instructions from the old forum.
Steps for how to connect the PCM with cells in order:
- Connect Packās negative with B-;
- Connect cell 1 with B1;
- Connect cell 2 with B2;
- Repeat for 3 - 9ā¦
- Connect cell 10 with B10; Then measure the cellās voltage in order to see if the voltage is progressive increase. If yes, you can plug the connector to the PCM in order. Also if the connector and wires is not matched, please donāt plug, or the PCM will be damaged.
- Connect Packās positive with B10
- Connect Loadās negative with P-
- Connect Chargerās negative with C-
- Connect Loadās positive with B10
- Connect Chargerās positive with B10
What Iām interested in is if itās safe to plug the balance lead connector in at once, or if I should take care to individually connect the wires one by one. Correct order in both cases, just wondering if something can get damaged if, say, the last balance connector got connected a split second before the first or something.
My only concern is possible friction damage from the zip ties
Yeah I didnāt pull on them hard. Just enough to keep it together. Should be fine tho. 22GA balance wire shouldnt warm up at all.
Why not use shrink wrap for wires? Iāve taken tubes and cut 5mm lengths for all by balance leads instead of zip ties, super neat if you plan them right
Thatās conter intuitive, no? If you cut apart a cars wiring harness every zip tie is drawn as tight as possible. I believe the operating principal is, you canāt have friction wear if you canāt have any movement. Build in slight slack if needed for flex and sinch them down.
Itās tight ish . Iām sure I can pull it one more notch but that will probably squish the wires together too much. Kinda afraid they will fuse together but itās also not gona be hot from 50mA balance current
i was advised not to weld nickel to the PCBā¦
YMMV
Whyās that? I also solder bridged the nickel to the pcb pads right under the braid.
@Winfly, see my earlier post. I have seen welded PCBās before, but the soldering is much stronger
this thread is very long
First and last time I did a spot weld on a pcb copper trace it just blasted shit through the air and the pcb was for the ass.
Even with lower settings I wouldnāt want to spot weld onto a pcb anymore.
Just soldered the nickel on the copper trace.
Easy and solid.
I do bothā¦ I weld them 1-2times depends how wide the nickel is and then I solder them. If you know your own spotwelder a bit you can set it on the perfect current 