There is a diagram for it, you just posted it
It doesn’t have a 12s one, but it’s a reasonable assumption since all the others are like this, to think that 12 should be the last connection on the end (17)
Then 11 should combine 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, 11.
Sweet. Thanks.
And it won’t be segmented. All in a row.
I think I will order some and do some practicing to see if I can make a decent connection.
Oh duh its literally the first one lol I scrolled past
It is a switch to turn on/off the discharge circuit of the bms. It requires a latching switch
It’s much the same as soldering wire but as @ShutterShock mentioned, the solder wants to wick up the braid. You can mitigate this with a set of forceps holding the braid near the joint. That being said, high-strand-count silicone wire is much safer and more robust. If height is a concern, do 3x 16awg or 4 x 18awg instead of 2 x 14awg.
I think w/braid a flat metal bar or metal ruler held down perpendicularly works much better than forceps as a heatsink. Leaves a very cleanly distributed solder joint too. I know somebody on here has pics they often refer to.
I have these 8s1p modules for a 16s1p board (sounds a bit odd but the M100 is a small HV ESC and is the right combination of range and power for me), but I also gave in to temptation and ordered some loaded hubs on here and even 10s speeds on those is more than I need. Would it be feasible to also wire them in parallel when the P groups are split?
So basically 8s1p units where the only shared power wiring are the paralleled positive and negative, but the balance leads are terminated together. I’ve read about p group nickel not carrying an appreciable current between cells in a group and largely just acting as a current collector, and these are new very tightly balanced P45B cells, but I don’t want to accidentally force a couple of amps through a 22awg wire
How much variation is ok between cells when hooking up Daly bms,
That’s how i do it. Definitely the best way i have found for braid.
But in general braid is pretty lame. I don’t like it for joints that will see any flex, it’s not fit for that purpose IMO.
I’m no expert. but I would think. almost any. given that I’ve seen screwed up batteries with wildly varying pgroup levels.
Hi relatively new to batteries, what are some good affordable spot welders that are deemed safe by the community
Malectrics. Go cheaper and it gets a lot worse.
Only 2 are recommended most of the time (Kweld or Malectrics) but if you say affordable because you want to save money then you’re barking up the wrong tree. Compare them 2 depends on what you want kweld seems to be better quality and gives more consistent results but others will argue thay prefer Malectrics. People who build mutiple battrys seem to go for kweld or larger more industrial machines. But it cheeper to buy a battry unless you building 1/2 a dozen or more.
Whipped up a little 12s2p yesterday and it’s draining by about 0.2W the whole time, any ideas? It’s been staying balanced so I don’t think it’s a particular cell
Running charge and balance only LLT BMS, battery is in a Meepo V3 enclosure (connected to charge port directly so no charge feedback because 12s and a tap off cells 1 and 11 for battery voltage display)
When I say affordable I meant something that wasn’t at an industrial level. But I’ll make sure to check those two out
Hey everyone. I’m looking to buy some .2 x 30mm nickel strip to build a 21700 battery build. Any idea if there is somewhere to buy it within the US, or is my best option something from China like this Link, and hope it’s pure?
I can sell you some 0.15x30 if that is sufficient for your needs. I have used it on many batteries now
You could also go w lazer cut from duck or mboards. This is my preferred method presently…
@ShutterShock stock will also def be more than sufficient for your build. 0.15 welds better also so less likely that welds will fail over time.
Ya depends on what pack orientation is being built. My stuff is amazing for bricks and SS but for DS, precut can definitely save some time
