Can confirm. They fucking explode. Its scary 
and smelly 
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Silicone cables can handle far more current than you’re used to if you follow house wiring standards, because the runs are shorter and the insulation is more heat resistant.
10AWG is good for 100+ amps without damaging the wire itself. Granted it will get pretty toasty, but the insulation is good for up to 200 degrees celsius.
12AWG is good for 80+ amps, you could get away with 14 or even 16AWG at 20A.
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Appreciate the help, thank you.
Cant find an answer as to how many welds i need to do to connector 2 or 3 pieces of nickel together to make a longer strip
Need 73mm x 127mm long sheets made up of 50mm and 30mm rolls
potential 172A peak draw. main and positive terminals will use 1 full continuous sheet of nickel
i noted that the guidance for how much current the nickel can carry. is propotional to the area the cross section. (thick x width). you could estimate the cross section of your welds to estimate how many you need.
turns out it doesn’t take that many welds to have the same area as the cross section of the nickel.
i was thinking about it cause it seemed like the welds were so small relative to the nickel. but… in cross sectional area, they are not.
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Got the same thing on my 40Ts from NKON… supposedly new 
Other than that they seem unused and the voltage within a box is super consistent, but I haven’t done any capacity testing
Did you buy them as “new”? I got mine as “Reclaimed”. According to nkon reclaimed cells have never been used, and are from unused packs. Mine were also very consistent, all within 0,05V.
Selling them as new would be a stretch though. I’d message them for some money back at least.
Mine: ↓
https://www.nkon.nl/de/samsung-inr21700-40t-4000mah-35a-clear-wrap-reclaimed.html
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Wow, thanks for the heads up. Definitely bought them as new:
3.55€ a piece…
The fuck up is that I have already welded all the ones with the markings. Would you mind if I used one of your pictures? They look exactly the same.
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Well, the exakt same price is a clue 
Maybe a mixup? And yes sure, you can use it. Good luck with the CS!
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Not exactly, 3.55 after ordering 200 (the screenshot is my confirmation email), I would have gotten them for 2.9! That’s how I’m sure there’s a mixup.
Thanks!
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Can I get an ELI5? im not following what you mean
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Just assume each weld is good for 5 amps and base your calculations on that.
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So about 34 welds? Theres 3 pieces involved to make one sheet. If thats the case im just going with the full 100mm sheets and wasting 20mm of nickel per piece.
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Each welding operation produces two welds, one for each electrode, so it would only be 17 welding ops, but yeah.
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Oh yeah you’re right, just saw that. Then you are definitely entitled for some money back imo.
Back to the original question, is it now or nah?
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ive only used llt bms that are labeled with b- and c-
im buying a small daly bms and im confused which unit I need
they said
"common port means charging and discharging using same wire/port
separate port means charging and discharging using different wire/port"
the seller sent me this image and im even more confused on which one I need for charging only (im guessing its common port?)
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65 to 130c 3s Turnigy packs don’t really seem to like welding at 90 joules. Guess I’ll try putting two in parallel tomorrow.
Either one will work.
If it’s a common port, you connect your charge wires to P-.
If it’s separate port, you connect your charger to C-.
In either case, you just connect your main power wire to the battery’s negative terminal, rather than P-.
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