Not sure, the antispark light was off so I don’t think the antispark was running, and the ESCs are set to time out in 10 minutes so I don’t think it was them or the GPS… Which leaves the LLT smart BMS and the Bluetooth module
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Antispark gates are open, unless there’s some draw from the monitoring circuit or a draw from a short, it must be the BMS
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No, not sure if that would even show since the current draw is so small. I keep checking back every 1-2 days while its static balancing and im logging the p-group and it continues to fucking drop…I dont get it this pack was never an issue since the start, it was another group.
Now that that group was fixed this 1st p-group is now doing it… Really confused since I don’t have anything else plugged in, its made the same way Ive made my other batteries.
Just a LLT smart bms, charge fuse on charge port, XT90s plugged directly into stormcore 100dx…makes no sense…
I was going to get my hands on the cells needed to do the swap for the entire p-group as im sick of dealing with this, but i dont want this issue to arise again… again makes no sense whats draining this singular group like this.
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nah, I just look at the davega.
Yes but now I have graphs, logs and I can check it when I am not at home
It would depend on the FLIR camera. A good one could definitely see where the current is going because wherever it is going has no choice but to be warmer than other components. I would unplug the BMS if I were you, and see if it still continues to drop. If it does, it’s a cell, if it doesn’t, it’s the BMS. Replacing the entire P-group is probably a good idea.
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I see the ptc resistor is sometimes used to limit inrush current.
My bench top power supply stopped working recently…
Guess what failed?
Seems like a pretty low tech and unreliable way to limit inrush
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MOV? (Metal oxide Varistor)
If so they all have a limited life span.
Their found in surge suppressors, from whole house/ building to the lowly power strip.
MOV’s aren’t for handling current inrush though. They’re wired across the lines (not in series as is done for inrush) to handle spikes (overvoltage).
You’re right about MOV limited life though. A manufacturer that doesn’t seriously derate theirs could leave the surge suppressor owner without that protection fairly quickly.
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I should have scrolled up before posting. I only saw Jacobs post without everything everything that proceeded.
Your right. Even though PTC/ resettable fuses and MOVs come in many different packages they both come in that same disc shaped through hole package design.
The PS which had that PTC had to be drawing so much current that instead of opening the circuit an arc formed causing self destruction.
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Yup.
Or the inrush was long enough to completely overheat the PTC since their hot resistance goes up over time (as it’s used).
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This is my first pack that isn’t charging normally. I plug in my 7A watee charger and i see it only doing 0.6A
Whats the reason for this? I cant find any setting that allows the full current to charge
Should be there though. EoC amp draw will be lower, but that should be far off at this voltage. Maybe the max charge voltage is set low too.
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only thing i did prior to charging was changing the values of total battery capacity to 12000 (12ah pack) & total cycle capacity to 11000
Check all settings, could be wrong ffrom the start.
These are the settings, ive compared with my lacroix and everything looks fine, ive turned off ‘switch’ and still the same issue.
Ive even changed out the entire bms for a 2nd unit and problem still persists…
Could it be the charger? This wate one is all i got on hand atm so i cant confirm with another charger, but this brand has been solid
EDIT: charger was switched to 220v instead of 110v…problem fixed.
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Just be glad you don’t live in a 220v country. Switching a dual-voltage power supply to 110v when it’s running on 220 will usually blow it up.
Luckily going the other way just makes it not operate.
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Hello chaps,
I have a P42A 12s4p and need to swap the battery cables.
If I go from 10awg to 12 awg, is that a little risky or incredibly stupid?
I don’t tend to draw more than 20 amps continuous, but I’d rather not be right at the cable’s limits.
Cheers.