Does anyone know what this extra +/- lead is for? Just bought a new 12s LLT SmartBMS and have never seen this before. According to google translate, the lettering above it says “Switch”.
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It can be more challenging as the solder likes to wick into them and they can get very brittle. It’s really not too tough, you might be able to find some braid on ebay
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Ya that’s for the switch lol you can attach a switch on it to turn on and off the discharge port.
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You did not follow the diagrams, you have to solder together a number of the leads to make it 12s. You should be able to get the diagram from the product page in a pdf
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If you are making a segmented pack you will have exposed connections unless you take an extra step.
To prevent solder wicking, use a flat head screw driver as a heat break behind the solder blob when you are soldering.
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yea thats the issue, There is no diagram for this unit.
Normally the first black wire is for battery -
then the first white wire hits the positive of battery -
then each wire hits the next positive terminal of every group. - I used a total of 13 wires for this 12 pack.
Which part did i mess up for this unit as it obviously isn’t wired the same as their standard 12s bms.
edit - i see now theres a text link hidden on the page that shows the diagram…
There is a diagram for it, you just posted it
It doesn’t have a 12s one, but it’s a reasonable assumption since all the others are like this, to think that 12 should be the last connection on the end (17)
Then 11 should combine 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, 11.
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Sweet. Thanks.
And it won’t be segmented. All in a row.
I think I will order some and do some practicing to see if I can make a decent connection.
Oh duh its literally the first one lol I scrolled past
It is a switch to turn on/off the discharge circuit of the bms. It requires a latching switch
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It’s much the same as soldering wire but as @ShutterShock mentioned, the solder wants to wick up the braid. You can mitigate this with a set of forceps holding the braid near the joint. That being said, high-strand-count silicone wire is much safer and more robust. If height is a concern, do 3x 16awg or 4 x 18awg instead of 2 x 14awg.
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I think w/braid a flat metal bar or metal ruler held down perpendicularly works much better than forceps as a heatsink. Leaves a very cleanly distributed solder joint too. I know somebody on here has pics they often refer to.
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I have these 8s1p modules for a 16s1p board (sounds a bit odd but the M100 is a small HV ESC and is the right combination of range and power for me), but I also gave in to temptation and ordered some loaded hubs on here and even 10s speeds on those is more than I need. Would it be feasible to also wire them in parallel when the P groups are split?
So basically 8s1p units where the only shared power wiring are the paralleled positive and negative, but the balance leads are terminated together. I’ve read about p group nickel not carrying an appreciable current between cells in a group and largely just acting as a current collector, and these are new very tightly balanced P45B cells, but I don’t want to accidentally force a couple of amps through a 22awg wire
How much variation is ok between cells when hooking up Daly bms,
That’s how i do it. Definitely the best way i have found for braid.
But in general braid is pretty lame. I don’t like it for joints that will see any flex, it’s not fit for that purpose IMO.
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I’m no expert. but I would think. almost any. given that I’ve seen screwed up batteries with wildly varying pgroup levels.
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Hi relatively new to batteries, what are some good affordable spot welders that are deemed safe by the community
Malectrics. Go cheaper and it gets a lot worse.
Only 2 are recommended most of the time (Kweld or Malectrics) but if you say affordable because you want to save money then you’re barking up the wrong tree. Compare them 2 depends on what you want kweld seems to be better quality and gives more consistent results but others will argue thay prefer Malectrics. People who build mutiple battrys seem to go for kweld or larger more industrial machines. But it cheeper to buy a battry unless you building 1/2 a dozen or more.
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