He’s not been active on the forum for a long time. He designed and built that pack himself
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I’m definitely not an expert, but since we are building the same type of batteries, maybe we can critique each other.
One thing I noticed is I don’t see any fiber tape. I think fiber tape is preferred to hold the cells together because the tension of the tape won’t be effected by heat. I put a layer around the cells after gluing and the assembly feels more rigid.
An observation in picture 2, I can see the solder joint on the positive lead. I would put some fish paper over this just to make sure it doesn’t work its way through the shrink wrap and touch the lid. Maybe you did this.
Nice work!
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Would this fuse be good for a 10s3p Molicel P26A
It is for 32 V 100A
It is a local e-bike shop in my city so no shipping and its really cheap.
Don’t cheap out on fuses. If you buy from a suspect vendor, there is no guarantee the specs are accurate and accordingly, the fuse will not serve its intended purpose. Do you really want a fuse to pop when it shouldn’t or not pop during a short/thermal runaway just to save a few Euros? I def wouldn’t…
Mouser or bust.
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Digikey gang!
… mouser is fine
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Oooo dat fake ZBMS
Gotta love trusting your battery with poorly copied parts. I hope it’s safe for everyone’s sake
Yeah, The fuse is just a piece of metal rated for voltage/current & most of this type are probably made in 
. If you are leaving sufficient overhead. But your 3p is capable of 105A so it depends on what the ESC can do. Mostly only see fusing on the charge side, so what are you trying to achieve with the fuse?
Yea, I have read a bit more and decided to go without the fuse as this is the concensus around here. I did rune a 80A fuse on my single drive till now and newer had any problems and now that I’m planing of going dual 6374 motors I’ll probably need all the jucie I can get…
I do have a smart bms and I fused the charge port, so this shuld be safe enugh! What would be the max safe vesc setting for my battery? Like I mantioned above, its a NESE 10s3p made from Molicel P26A cells and 12Awg silicone wires for the main leads.
Discharge max = 35A x 3 = 105A depending on ESC used. But that is a max, setting to 90A may suit?
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Hi all, finished building my 18s6p P45B pack and did my BMS wiring yesterday. I am using a JBD SP22S003 BMS and everything seemingly went fine except for my final readout. The diagram shows leads BC16-17-18-19-20 as getting combined, however on my connector there is no lead for where BC20 would be - it skips and has the last 2 leads. I combined the 4 wires 16-19 and finished it off per the diagram, however I am getting an odd readout on the Xiaoxang app. Not sure if I should add a lead where there is one missing, and add it to the other combined leads? Even though the BMS model number is SP22, it’s listed as a 21S BMS (and the missing wire would confirm that also).
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance and happy holidays all.
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What i normally do is remove the black plastic cover on the back of the BMS and solder those pins together at that location.
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I just ran all 4 leads to the 16th P group since it wasn’t a long run. Do you have any idea what might be up with the funky reading? I haven’t used this BMS in particular before, only the 10-17S one before.
The weird reading comes from the missing lead messing up the way the BMS reads voltage. You could just solder that one to the reatbof the group, but i recomend soldering all of them together at the back of the BMS and removing all but one of those leads that go to your group 16.
After that you should be able to plug everything in and it will read lile it should. If it doesnt you will need to go into the settings menu and charge the BMS from 21s to 18s
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Thanks, ended up jumping them on the back of the BMS and all is reading well now 
Now need to ride it!
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house_exploding.gif
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Was able to just fit the 18s6p in a @tomiboi double stack enclosure. Had to get creative with the layout and used some 3D printed jigs to help support the cells, but she fits comfortably (already tested mounting it to the deck). Most difficult part was keeping the height down, so I ran everything through the channels on top of the groups. Copious amounts of fishpaper and kapton tape were used in there to keep everything separated safely. Pretty excited to get it moving (just need my @Skyart motors!)
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Dude, nice and clean. I couldn’t figure out a nice way to fit 18s into my tomiboi ds enclosure, this looks really well executed.
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