The battery builders club

Try to get a high concentration so you don’t have to worry about water rusting anything.

I have 99.9% in a spray bottle, ready to clean any surfaces off. If I touch nickel a lot while cutting it to shape I will wipe them off. If I don’t, I can see smoke of skin oils burning off when welding. It also helps cleaning up flux that splatters.

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anyone know??

A search should turn up a bunch of recommendations as I remember several people posting with their thoughts on the ones they use.

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Cool, good to know.

I’ve got 99.9% on hand already from cleaning computer parts :grinning:

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tried but couldnt really find anything

i seem to remember in the past @skyart recommending some

Found these in a few seconds. They have links, pictures, or a product name to search for.

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No looks IT IS thay just buy them and stock then in the uk. Just like 99% of stuff you buy from a shop. Tho the QR code is a idea from a forum member thay incorporated to get the wiring diagrams.

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Hey fellas just wanna make sure I’m correct here before finalizing my bms wiring. The LLT smart bms has 2 each of B- and C- traces. I believe based on the diagram provided by the manufacturer that for a charge only circuit the main neg terminal goes into the bottom B- and then is attached on the other side to the bottom C- (as below) which would then terminate in an xt30 along w the wire from main pos terminal for the charge port to attach to. The other 2 traces are for discharge. Is this correct?

Both terminals are the same, they are directly connected i believe. brb checking with multimeter.

Edit: Yes they are. Doesn’t matter where you connect to, upper or lower.

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Much appreciated, Good Sir.

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For a discharge BMS you would connect P- to your VESC and B- to your battery. However, I would advise against that, as it can mean that you suddenly don’t have brakes anymore when the BMS decides to cut the connection. Most people run the BMS bypassed, meaning that you connect the main negative terminal straight to your VESC and only run a small wire from the main negative terminal to B-.

Either way, your charge ports negative terminal always connects to C- and the positive terminal to your batteries main positive terminal. So you’re mostly correct.

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I dont believe this is correct. LLT SmartBMS’s are shared charge/discharge, meaning that you both charge and discharge through the C- pads. On the official LLT wiring diagram, they say that P- should be left unconnected, no matter whether you’re bypassing or not.

I agree with this, and you stated the reasons why perfectly :metal:

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@Halbj613 We have moved on from those corner cutters, they work fine on paper but wear out quickly on nickel. This is what we use now. They are more expensive but durable. Still not designed for cutting metal though.

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does it have to be made by ‘american made’? or any brand will do

also is an xt90 fine for the input cable on a kweld? should i buy something more heavy duty?

Try to find one that looks very similar. Those regular corner chompers will wear out quick.

The XT90 will get hot. I use XT150 connectors.

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mine wasnt completed when it came and never came with an xt150 (as far as i an see)

im running dual lipos. can i split off the input wire in parallel and use a seperate xt90 for each lipo?

Yeah if you are using dual, you should be fine with splitting the load between two XT90s.

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what wire size is necessary per lipo?

the input is 8awg will 10awg per wire be fine?

ah shit I just remembered I need to buy 10awg wire as 12 probably isn’t gonna cut it for single lipo right?

nvm i’ll just double it up, wire is expensive asf and I dont wanna spend more money on it

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