But I’ll be building a 5p pack, so I think I will just double up the nickel and use 1 or 2 10awg wires for the series just to be safe.
that doesn´t change anything on the facts above mentioned.
better 2x12AWG than 1x 10AWG.
sure you ever can do 2x10AWG as well if you feel the need for it.
I only ordered 2m of 10awg wire, so unless I wind 12awg wire in my local hardware store I will just use 2 10awg, so it’s not really a necessity but I just don’t have any 12 awg wire.
Thank you for the help btw.
Does anyone know of some sort of die cutter that will take corners off nickel? 120 little strips later, my hands are cramping up 
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give me a minute… already wanted to ask you if you need a corner cutter. I just need to find the link…
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@glyphiks can´t find the original link anymore, but it was UK anyway…
so just search for corner chombers.
Credit goes to @BigBen
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Awesome! Cheers! Are they good for 0.15 nickel?
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yes and I can confirm it is very nice to work with.
just take care that you don´t lose any of those nickle corners in your shoes 
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Quick tip: have a strong magnet around to catch the nickel corners 
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Hahaha they are so sharp!
Ordering now
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You have kweld, .20mm works well. Either way you don’t need the slits with kweld.
And IMO I’d rather have 27mm of solid nickel, more conductor more angry pixies. But minor difference if it’s not carrying series current. Beware the difference in height for doublestack vs staggerstack.
Hmm I remember from when I was shopping, it’s hard to find ladder strips that are not plated steel?
is that nkon? Lol there was a fiery thread about nkon strips being not nickel recently (I think it’s all positively resolved).
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Oh my
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I do not cut “all” strips. Only when necessary. Placing properly and protecting the wires is way more important than rounded corners. I also see many of you are making just two welds per cell. That’s perfect for a dual suspension ebike but imho is scary for esk8. Our vibrations are really something. I make 6 welds per cell and stick every single balance wire with kapton and pad them with eva foam. There’s no way they can be cut. Any part of the nickel can cut the wire even if they are rounded with the right movement/hit so I prepare my packs thinking on possible bumps.
That’s just my opinion.
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Ya I’m with you. Cutting the nickel is the most time consuming part building my batteries! Some one needs to make a cutting jig asap!
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Lol, I really dont need to cut any of the nickel on this big block pack… but it looks so nice.
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This might be a really really dumb question, and please don’t be dissapointed in me.
Does the power supply voltage matter? I’m currently looking at power supplies, but the ones that are 50.4v and over 2a are kind of expensive.
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You mean “power supply” as one to be used for a balance charger or you actually mean a “li-ion charger”? If the latter, the voltage does matter and it must match your battery pack voltage, e.g. you need 50.4V one for a 12S pack; 42V one for 10S pack etc.
I mean a power supply that connects to the charging port that is connected to the BMS.
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Right, that would actually be the li-ion charger. It has to be able to switch from CC to CV mode as the battery pack voltage gets close to the target voltage.
The Yzpower chargers are popular and inexpensive. I have this 4A one for $27 shipped and it works well: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32864844991.html. It only really does 3.7A but that’s still good enough for me.
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I have already ordered the charging port, so i want the 5.5x2.1 mm plug.
Would this charger also work, even though it’s only 2a?