Could be. Could also be digitized voltage and/or current data but then why four pins?
Everything depends on where those four data pins go. If they go to an MCU they could be digital or analog. But if they go to op-amps or filters then it’ll be analog data of some type.
Couldn’t it be a failed component?
There appears to be a suppression diode there that could be shorted or it could be a different component.
This is 100% what has happened. I think I’ve mentioned it earlier on in the thread.
There is a TVS diode on the ESC which blows when you plug a faulty battery into the board, then when summerboard send you a new battery and you plug that in you blow the new battery because of the dead short across the diode. This is why so many people complained about dead replacement batteries
I looked into those 4 pins when I had the board open and 2 of them are for the power switch. When those are shorted the battery turns on. The other two were some sort of digital comms. I didnt look into them much since it wasnt important at the time but my guess is the communication is either for battery health/status info from the BMS or control of the LEDs in the logo.
Update: New battery came in and it turns out that isn’t the issue with my board. The battery checks out when tested. Unable to power the board on & when the charger is plugged in the green light immediately turns off.
turns out the vx1 has some of the more horrible connectivity issues out of every remote I own. DON’T USE IT IF YOU LIVE IN A HEAVILY POPULATED AREA LIKE NYC!
Having the two independent vescs turned out to be a bad idea. I kept getting CAN related issues where one esc would stop being detected and I’d have to do a firmware reflash to fix it.
Swapped out the makerx and vx1 for a xenith and hoyt puck.
Added voltage gauge.
Another ride video.
getting closer to completion.
Got final battery 12s3p p42a. Now the range is so good that I get foot/leg fatigue before the battery runs out. Now all of the major problems are sorted out.
next updates.
I eventually plan to replace the stock motors as well with 5065 that’s the largest motor that will fit on the sr360. Ill have to do some grinding on the caster to get it to fit.
Install the tomiboi bindings.
You think the wider sbx wheel solves the ground clearance?
A lot of this scraping is actually because I was trying tricks and used those wacky diy 5-X trucks that let the board lean super hard. So I have a feeling with stock sbx you could get by pretty well.
Hi guys. Ive just got a second hand SBX and it looks like a failed firmware update has broken the motherboard somehow. Im a total noob but would rather sort something to make it more reliable than it is now. Whats my best options for simple ish upgrades?
Try seeing with summerboard will charge you for a motherboard refresh. That would be much easier then going diy. Once you go diy you have to change all the electronics with would be like 500 even with low end electronics esc+battery+battery. Don’t tell them you bought it second hand tho just say it stopped working after an update and see what they say. You may have to haggle with them alittle bit. But if it’s a firmware refresh then that doesn’t require any new parts so they are less likely to charge you for a new board.
More or less yes actually. Basically all the parts are available. If you put a little bit of effort in, common diy esk8 parts with the right connectors would be an easy plug and play experience.