I bought a replacement motherboard this past summer for $317 including shipping.
Then after that failed, I spent around $500 on DIY parts. I didn’t need any enclosure parts though, I have a 3d printer for stuff like that.
I recommend scrapping the stock esc, control and bms hardware, they caused me nothing but trouble.
admittedly, the board doesn’t run quite as well with the new components, but I also haven’t spent much time in VESC getting settings right, so I blame laziness for that.
Ultimately, even if the lower max performance can’t be fixed, the reliability is well worth it.
my vesc setup runs far better than stock. you probably need to switch the sensor type to HFI.
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rebuilding my summerboard is my first experience with VESC and esk8 in general. Did you change out your motors? or does sensor refer to something else?
no I still have the stock motors.
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I should have searched HFI for a couple minutes.
I will try that out the next time I open up my enclosure, which is a bit of a large task thanks to my inexperience building
I mean charging the sensor mode in the vesc app. When you run calibration for the motors it automatically selects a sensor mode type based on the type of motors you have. the summerboard has sensorless motors so by default the vesc’s sensor mode type goes to sensorless. this mode can cause stuttering during startup unless you kickpush to start. BLDC motors have a hard time spinning up at low speed with is why most motors have sensors to tell the vesc the motors orientation with allows proper startup at low speed. The dev for vesc eventually developed two sensorless control modes that works almost as well as a dedicated sensor. the two modes are VSS and HFI. I have never gotten VSS to work well with any of my boards. HFI works great tho. Once on HFI the motors should start up smoothly with no/minimal stuttering. if you still have stuttering then you may need to retune the brushes on the SR360.
how to get to HFI. in vesc app > motor CFG > general > FOC > Sensor Mode > set to HFI.
do this for twice for both vesc’s
if you really want to convert then I’d recommend. xenith esc and hoyt puck. these aren’t cheap and they might be slight overkill but they are both rock solid parts.
if you want to get a cheaper esc and remote then I’d recommend. Go-FOC DV4 esc and flipsky vx2 remote(DONT GET THE VX1 ITS TRASH).
the battery should be a 12s. You can run on a 10s but the speed will be lower. I’d recommend getting a custom made 12s2p or 12s3p molicel battery from one of the builders here. You could get this or this. both of those batteries are 10s and underpowered but they are cheap and meepo makes good batteries. I have the second one and its lasted me since 2019.
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second the hoyt puck, though losing speed and battery on the remote is slightly unfortunate.
for the battery, I opened the stock battery and pulled out all of their electronics and added balance leads. I currently don’t have a bms installed and charge my batteries separate from the board.
Did you go with 10mm straight or 10-8 stepped on the 270 hangers? Thanks.
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Stepped.
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You still have that battery on you? Mine
s got a broken battery and I could take it off your hands. Summerboard quoted me 90 to 300 to repair and I dont think im prepared to send it in.
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Yeah I still have it.
How much do you want for it? Still 100? Let me know how to proceed
Yeah 100plus shipping. Can you message me your address so I can calculate shipping cost. I also need to double check that the battery still charges its been sitting there for a while.
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Dang would have been nice to mark the voltage before and after sitting.
heard reports of parasitic drain.
Battery was apparently still at 91%.
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Hi. I’ve got a summerboard and I’m getting this on the app. I’m guessing my motherboard B is fried? No lights on it and obvs the motor isn’t working
Did an update fail? Or did is just stop working randomly?
I purchased the board for parts. So this is how it came .
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You tried the firmware overwrite option?