I really like the strap + velcro combo
I use these in a rectangular pattern. They can flex with the board and are super strong. The screw part is mounted inside the enclosure and some countersunk screws through the deck mount to the threaded insert part. Also, it’s nice for swapping to a smaller jump pack box because it’s only 4 screws to undo and put a small box on there.
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I am using the springs that come with channel trucks and long bolts with washers and a carbon fiber plate to mount the battery on my mountainboard. That way the deck can flex a lot and I have some real dampening for the battery.
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Do they flex side to side? Those look pretty great!
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Yup. The top and bottom metal part are only connected via the rubber middle thingy.
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Those would be literally perfect then, I’ll buy a set! Being able to quickly swap is also appealing 
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You can find a bunch of shape/size/fastener options for these on McMasterCarr under “vibration-dampening mount”
General MMC Protip:
If a part is too expensive to ship to your location, send them an email through their contact form and ask for the original manufacturer name and part number “because your manager needs it. for traceability.”
They’ll send you the info no questions asked and you can Google it for a local/cheaper supplier.
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So, the rubber mounts for air-conditioners arrived:
They’re very nice! I got them for M5 because that’s the most common bolt size for esk8 stuff.
I noticed that the pre-drilled holes in my deck were too wide for my case, so I made 4 new ones in an 80mm x 80mm pattern. And then countersunk them using a larger drill bit:
I also drilled holes for the cable glands for the phase wires and sensor wires, and epoxied them:
The rubber mounts had bolts that were too long, so I put 2 nuts on them and then cut them right against the nut, so that the tread wouldn’t get damaged:
With the exposed bolts at 9mm long, I cut a 1cm piece of wood to sit at the bottom as best as I could. There will also be a layer of foam on top.
Mounting the heat-sink
Oh boy, mounting the ESCs was a literal mess. The problem is that you need to first mount the ESCs onto this separate mounting plate, and then you put the plate onto the heat-sink and secure it with these tiny M2 bolts, and then finally you can mount the entire heat-sink into the cut hole.
So I started by putting some thermal paste on the ESCs, and bolting them to the first plate. But oh wow – the holes don’t fucking line up:
Maybe I’ll fix it one day if my temps aren’t good enough. For now 2 bolts per ESC will have to suffice 
I also got some thermal paste on my hoodie. Shit is hard to clean out. OOF.
Before I put the heat-sink in the enclosure, I added a layer of butyl tape around it to prevent water ingress:
Seems to have worked well 
Time will tell if it leaks at all. Also, did I mention the heat-sink does not come with any of these weird-sized bolts I needed? Rough.
In the next update:
- I will be using an ethernet cable for the
phasesensor wire extensions. - I ordered some Trampa wings to route the cables underneath of. I had considered using ruberoid sheets, but I’d have to melt them onto the board, and removing them would be impossible. The wings are meant for this (routing cables and adding W concave), so hopefully they do their job.
- I will be reworking how I connect phase wires together. Turns out this is why my board was trying to kill me earlier:
I guess I have to switch to not using heat-shrink, so that the tape can actually hold the wires together? Or just switch away from bullet connectors. Maybe use XT-60s? Lol. Wonder how I’d waterproof them… Same question about the sensors; I’d love to just use JSTs, but I think I’ll go with the waterproof sensor connectors I’ve used in the past. 
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I believe that was trampas fault for providing wrong dimensions? (Don’t quote me on that)
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Hmm, I’ll take a look at how easy the trampa wings are to take on or off. Maybe instead of soldering waterproof connectors I can just directly solder on extensions for the motor wires to make them long enough to reach the case 
What? How? Why?
I think he meant sensor extensions, I would pay money to see people use 24awg wire as phase wires.
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Whoops, fixed 
Also I ordered some heat-shrink with adhesive built in. Not sure if it’ll be better than tape, but it’ll sure be waterproof
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A few hours of soldering only to find out the sensors don’t work. OOF.
Tried the other motor and its sensors also don’t work. Double OOF.
But then I tried with my 60D and it detected the hall sensors 
Although the temperature reading on the motor I already extended sensors for is showing a negative value. Hopefully my crimps just suck, I guess I’ll reinforce them with solder.
Not sure if there’s an option in vesc tool to change the sensor voltage in case that’s the issue, or if I should just replace the Trampa ESCs for a stormcore 60D+. Worst case use HFI.
Well, time to extend the 2nd motor… God these sensor wires are hard to get the insulation off.
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This is interesting as something similar to this happened to me too. What FW version are you using?
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5.2
Interesting. The day I upgraded to 5.2 FW, I lost sensor detection and my temp started reading consistently negative 90s.
I need to reflash 5.1 and see if it magically fixes it.
Extending sensor cables and/or installing connectors for sensors is a horrible job! Especially when all that work goes to waste. I feel you! Spent hours installing fancy connectors only to rip the things out when sensors played up haha.
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Finished the motor wire extensions:
Figured out the sensor problem; vescs weren’t set to use 5V. There’s a switch on the inside:
Tore the griptape off the board:
Cleaned up the leftover glue with WD40 and paper towels. Nice!
Then I dremelled the Trampa logo off the wings:
Drilled a lot of holes for the wings:
My board really looking like Swiss Cheese now:
Routed the wires underneath:
I need to leave the wires long so that I can still open the box. In hindsight I probably should have added the cable glands to the long side of the box (then I could fit all 8), and route the wires under the box to that side. Well, since my box mounting pattern is 8x8cm, I could still rotate my existing box, but the wires aren’t long enough 
Also, the 4 rubber anti-vibration mounts move a bit more than I’d like them too. Maybe I shouldn’t have gone with the M5 ones. I don’t feel comfortable using my box handle to lift the whole weight of the board with these.
Anyway, added butyl tape above the bolts on the inside:
And used velcro to attach all the little bits and bobs. Still using my 12s3p travel battery, with some foam blocks around it. Gonna take it for a spin tomorrow
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Oh, and I also had to tighten my matrix 2 kingpin nuts. Need to buy additional ones to stop them from coming loose.
As soon as I can buy moon drives with steel gears I’ll swap this winter setup to the summer setup with apex airs on the front, and luna hanger at the back w/ 8" wheels. So I’ll have 2 drive-trains I can swap back and forth. Maybe I should get another deck and swap the box back and forth (or just save some money, lol)
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