I fear that these ropes will soon wear out and break. But in the meantime, I’m quite enjoying this setup; I don’t think I need 4WD after all
Successfully towed my youngest brother home from school, and got some clips from the 360 cam. Longer vid still processing on youtube, but you can see a preview on my instagram for now
ESC gets really hot in my backpack with no cooling! I didn’t check its temperature while riding, but after I got home and warmed my fingers up, it was at 55 degrees!
Current 12s3p P42A battery only gets me like 10km of range. Hopefully I get more range in warmer weather, because I really don’t wanna drag a whole 12s9p with me just to get 30km of range
Once again, I need to get different tires / rope. Maybe chains?
I did that last year. Getting up to speed is the hard part, also when the guy behind you starts doing tricks and yanking on the rope then be prepared to eat snow. Was a lot of fun tho
They came preassembled, which is nice! The bolt offset from the bearing is different than with rockstars, so I had to alter the spacer config on my Moon drives. I needed longer bolts for the wheel plate, so I used some I had lying round (10mm longer than the stock ones), but they were too long unfortunately
A bunch of snow fell last night, and despite the roads not being cleaned yet, I could somehow manage to go forward
Not having sensors connected made it really hard to get going from standstill. I also got a few DRV faults in the process from stalling the motors -_-
However, these wheels are a game-changer! Cutting through this much snow would have been impossible with my previous setup, and this time I’m not even using ropes!
I bought NESE modules for a 12s6p 21700 battery. That should get me enough range for the routes I want to do in summer months. (30km I hope) Worst case I can plug it in parallel with my current 12s3p battery. I plan to mount these in a peli case on the board this time. (Although I am waiting to see what Apex bring to the table) Backpack wire is kinda annoying, and the ESC heats up more than I would like. Will also plug in the sensors that way
I also got a single Luna hanger. Might put it on the front, or might replace the drivetrain if it happens to break. Will see.
Getting mad rear foot fatigue. I think I need some W concave. Will try to route the motor wires under my griptape to achieve that, hopefully. If not… will have to search for a new deck
Anyway, any suggestions for what EU web-stores I should search for pelican style cases in?
I followed Jeffrey’s tutorial. Plots looked really good. When trying to start motors up using the remote I noticed they would sometimes get a bit stuck / constantly change directions, so I upped the voltage values a little and seemed fine. Then I tried it IRL, strapped into my board.
I apply throttle, motors buzzing, not moving forward. I push it further, try helping it with a small kickpush. Suddenly the motors spring into action, and despite me letting go of the throttle, they keep accelerating, and knock me down on my side. As I’m laying there in the wet snow for a few seconds, I observe that although I have the throttle let go / slightly braking, the board is still trying to drag me forward.
My hypothesis: if your motors stall for X seconds while HFI is buzzing, once they manage to spin they will continue spinning for X seconds, despite real-time remote data telling them otherwise. Also how the fuck is HFI less accurate than just sensorless mode?
Anyway, I’m going to strongly recommend avoiding HFI because it’s dangerous AF. This was on a Stormcore 60D, FW5.2 btw.
Switched back to sensorless, and had my ESC lose track of motor position while at high speed for the first time (it does it all the time at low speeds), and it tried braking on me for a few seconds. That was very scary! Turned back and rode home. Need to get back to sensored mode asap.
Interesting… Your sensors should be taken out of the equation once you’re at a pretty low speed. Personally, I run sensorless and have had no high speed hiccups. Even if I’m barely rolling forward, the sensorless motors still pick up fine.
No fault this time. I don’t get it either. Maybe the super long phase wires are making position estimation hard? Or my 9:44 gear ratio being inadequate for 9" wheels.
That shouldn’t be it… that’s my exact setup. Super long phase and sensor cables, same gearing, same esc (I have a + now), same tire size. We’re both on the lighter side as I recall too.
Any signs of water ingress or exposed phase connections?
Now, my problem – how do I mount this thing? I know a lot of people like to do 3 bushings so that the box can sway back and forth, but I’m worried that’ll put too much stress on the plastic. I’d rather use 4 bushings in a square profile, and my deck already has 4 holes, so I was wondering if making them oval to accomodate for the flex of the deck would work.
Regardless, how do I make this mounting waterproof? I want to pressure-wash my board when it’s dirty (I already did on low setting but it wasn’t that effective as you can see, lol), so I definitely want to avoid any water ingress. (Or I could just take my battery out every time I wash the board, but I don’t want to open the enclosure while it’s dirty on the outside of course)
I could use straps, but then I have to take them off every time I open the enclosure to plug in power / charge / swap batteries. So I’d rather not. I browsed a bunch of mountain board builds, but didn’t find a solution.
P.S. Since my ESCs will also be in the middle, I need sensor cable extensions. I could make my own, but I was wondering if maybe some esk8 shop just sells them ready-made?
You can try a rigid square pattern mounting setup, but that board looks pretty flexy.
If i were going to do that, and expected movement, i would make one set of holes extra sloppy. Stack rubber washers or use truck skate bushings as a flexible standoff between the board and the enclosure. Then plug the enclosure holes with butyl tape and a metal washer (maybe a sandwich with butyl tape between washers) for water resistance.
Definitely use loctite or lock nuts
For sensor extension cables, i used a 6 conductor cable and soldered the crimp pins on the end. It wasn’t too bad.
