Rocket Hollow Core Deck For Sale [In Stock]

Hello eskate community!

For the past 4 years, I’ve heavily invested my energy into solving a commuting issue of mine. I needed to get from my house to my university in one of the hilliest cities in the world, and I needed more power that I should ever put into a board to make up for me running late so I don’t miss my test, lol. I started small, and quickly worked my way to quad drive. But that wasn’t enough, so double sized motors were needed.

I also wanted a clean solution, as I would be carrying said (illegal) board around campus, where it was banned, so it was important that campus police not think it’s electric. This deck, when paired with hub motors, is often viewed as a regular long board, not an electric longboard, when not in use.

Ont of my biggest problems has been with design. It seems like a lot of eskate products are designed and sold by businessmen, not skateboarders. I’ve been a daily skater for 13 years now, heavily invested in the street skateboarding scene. I needed something that felt like the way a skateboard should feel when ridden.

The goal was simple: 12s4p or larger, with 4x vesc’s, with hummie hubs.

After messing with the numbers, I found many options would work:

12s3p with diebiems and dual/quad vesc
12s4p with charge only bms and dual vesc
12s5p with charge only bms and a single vesc

And that’s just with the 18650 cell. Then there’s the 21700 cells, which also can be used as a:

12s4p with charge only bms and dual vesc
12s3p with full bms and dual/quad

And more…

With a 12s4p of the 30T cell for example, you could do 140 amps continuous with the safer lithium ion chemistry. This is a game changer for those who want a lot of power, but still an “in deck” battery solution.

Then there’s the price. Current Hollow core decks today are mostly in the $300+ range, with some as high as $600. The price needs to come down. This is not possible with hand crafted small batch artisan boards, like @chaka’s deck. The labor is just too high.

But don’t get me wrong, there is a difference. Ollin decks final quality shows though, as you get perfection instead of good quality. The rocket deck as it stands today is not a highly polished product. It has a glossy clear coat, clean sanded design, don’t get me wrong about that. But there as a few imperfections, such as the lid being slightly too large in some places, and it doesn’t have any extra features.

To get this project off the ground and into production, I need to start somewhere though. The end goal is a more refined product, at a higher price of course due to the extra labor. But to start with, this is an “as is” new deck, with very minor imperfections such as the lid being too large in some places. This is easy to fix, it would take about an hour of time and some sand paper, and maybe some clear coat for the edge as well. And it will then look flawless.

This is a blank canvas… No branding… No details… No glitter… No paint… But it’s a great platform for an artist to put into the final details to turn this into a true piece of art cough cough @Sender lol.

The price also reflects the lack of extra details. It can also be ridden as is with no extra work, and it will still look great!

Size of each internal pockets is 650mm x 85mm x 22mm, and there’s 2 pockets.

The top mount only fits paris base plates, for a clean, low hugging to the ground profile and riding feel. You can still bottom mount any truck also.

Here are the options:

No frits, no glits, plain deck, which includes deck, lid, screw inserts, and stainless steel screws - $150 plus shipping
With griptape applied, which includes deck, lid, screw inserts, and stainless steel screws - $160 plus shipping

Shipping in the US is around $35-$50. I will include the cost of the pertty box also in the shipping cost, which is a few bucks. If someone wants to volunteer to ship out the orders in Europe, I can send one batch to said volunteer which may simplify things. This needs to be a trusted member of the community however.

All decks will be shipped Next Wednesday, May 29th. Decks are in stock, but I am waiting on more screws, and card board to make my custom boxes. I also have Wednesdays off work, and It will take a few day’s to put all of the inserts in the deck, and package everything. One mass shipping will help with the efficiency of everything.

This is a first come, first serve basis. Only 20 decks are in stock!

To order, please PM me your paypal and address, and which option you would like. I will calculate shipping costs, which I will be added to the invoice I send you!

Thanks for the support everyone, and I’m excited to offer a lower cost (yet high quality), hollow core deck to the community!


Hello !

Do you think it would be possible to route a bit more inside the pockets or not ? My plan, if it is possible, is to put some lipos inside this deck but I need around 25-26mm to do that

I feel like a deck of this nature would already be at it’s limits, you would be better off making your own ‘gasket’ to suit and making the whole thing a touch thicker.


What’s the flex like? I’m having a hard time imagining it with all that interesting geometry.


No flex. It’s pretty solid, which is good and bad. It defiantly isn’t going to break easily.

I don’t think you can mill enough out to fit a 25mm lipo. I was originally planning on making it 3 plys thicker so the pocket would be 26mm deep, but… It’s already thick enough… Until I can figure out how to thin it out on the edges.


I received the board. It looks fantastic. I didn’t realize from the pictures that it has a small drop. I’m stoked.


Make it wider deck and chamfer the edges like @Luke did on move-e deck ?

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This is already 10 inches wide. Unfortunately, this is as wide as the mold can press them. I would need to have a new mold made, at the cost of around $5000. Beyond that, I don’t have a work shop or any place to do sanding in bulk. So I’m a bit limited. This is why I’m selling the deck as it is. It’s doable to sand the edges.


I’ve got some plans for mine to include skinning the bottom with CF and glass fruit on the top. I’ll start a build thread once I get everything together.




You sat frit, I say fruit. Damn spellcheck…

@evoheyax @torqueboards


Noice low rider


I wanna line-x my deck, tell me why it’s a bad idea.


Still have some decks left. Over half are gone, so get it while it lasts. Not sure when I will have more in stock once these are gone!


what’s the best way to open up ports on this deck? like, charge port, volt-meter, loop keys, etc? should it go on the side, bottom, top lid?

My loop key is going out of the top lid centerline, so I can reach it while standing if needed. Charge port is going out of the side. No volt meter.

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For anyone attempting to sand off the clearcoat for whatever reason. Here’s what happens if you don’t get it completely removed and then try to stain the deck blue (not sure why anyone else would try to stain it blue, but any other color would be the same). At least I know where more sanding is needed.


Interesting choice…

One other thing for everyone to remember, the lids were designed to fit one way only. This is intentional. You will see when you line up the center outside holes if it is correct or not. The rest of the holes will match up either way.


I had no idea… Thanks! I’m sure I would have screwed that up somehow.